Blank LCD display A5S

madsen

Hello do anybody have a solution or seen this issue before, or is it to order a new display (where to buy?)
- happens  at power up 
- see attached picture 
- running community marlin software 
thanks in advance for any help

Stephen Todd

You've got the backlight but no video information

It could be the LCD itself I suppose, but I'd examine the cable - not familiar with these new style JGAurora printers, so don't know where the display originates - on the A5, it was the LCD board itself

If not the cable, I'd be looking for dry solder joints on the display board or an overheating/burnt component

Silviu

Hi,

I just got this issue. I have turned on the printer and i got white screen. Everything was ok before turning off.
No weird smell, or smoke from inside.

I'm using latest stock firmware.
No communication with Cura oj JGcreat via USB.
Pronterface doesn't connect anymore. (all drivers are installed accordingly ,and worked till yesterday) 
I have tried to re-flash the firmware, but without success. Doesn't change from this step.

Does anyone have an idea, what can be the problem?
Can I do something, beside asking JGAurora for official support.

Thank you for your time and support!!!

Samuel Pinches

I think for this problem you need to contact JGAurora. Sounds like a faulty motherboard.

Silviu

Hi Samuel, 

Thank you for your fast feedback. I wrote them an email, together with some pictures and video link. I hope they will support, keeping in consideration that printer is less than 4 months old.

Have a nice day! 

Stephen Todd

The primary suspect is the cable

I've not seen the back of the screen, so don't know if there is a reset button

It could also be the screen, or controller board gone faulty - not much info on these new printers yet

madsen

Thanks Todd, Will take it apart this week and let all know the result of findings 
- Silivus, pleas let my know what feedback your are getting from factory...also not sure but is it a A5s or A5 different system motherboard and display 

thanks 

madsen

Ok did take the base apart, could not see any loose connection or any burned components on the display  or at the main board. So I decided to flash the maline software again, from the blank display. Waited 30 minutes and restarted - booting again and worked - did som test it seems like it cannot save changed settings I.e “config” PLA temp change from 205 to 200 save setting and restart and it was back to original 205 deg - indicate that it can not save to rom on board - so I guess my mesh-bed parameters, will not be saved and the main board has failed.
any input is welcome 

Samuel Pinches

@madsen - wow! Ok, on the custom firmware, the settings are saved to the SD card, not to the flash memory.

Stephen Todd

I did consider main board failure, as white screen on Ender 3 is usually a mainboard failure - but no info on A5s mainboard and TFT screen anywhere on Internet at present

The A1 has the same board and display, and I almost bought one - but there is a saying, "never buy version 1 of anything", so I held off - will not be buying one now

I hope you get a free replacement controller board, if not I'd consider swapping out the controller board and display to something known to be reliable or cheap to replace, as JGAurora charge 2x the price of equivalent boards and screens

madsen

Samuel - thanks for the hint about setting are saved on SD - been printing the last 5 hours none issues... problem may have been solved - not sure why the flash memory has lost the marlin software - used alu tape on the ribbon cable for display and SD card reader - hope it is stable and not interfered. The malin software is excelent compared to the JG - especial the tune of Z and mesh..

thanks again 

Silviu

Hello everyone,

Unfortunately for me didn't work, to re-flash the firmware. I have made the same steps like you, but not even after 30min. the printer didn't rebooted. Still blank screen.
I have discussed with JGAurora, and they told me that motherboard can be the issue, and being in warranty, they will replace it. The problem is that this motherboard is not available in Europe, and will take some time till I will get it...

What do you think, if I will replace the controller cip from the motherboard, do I need some special tools for the initial flash of the firmware?  or will work in the same way, with SD card?

Thank you!

Stephen Todd

The motherboard will come with factory firmware pre flashed - you just need to take plenty of photos of which wires go in which board sockets before you start unplugging the damaged board - then it is a few minutes job to swap out the board and re-plug the wires

Silviu

This is clear, what you ar saying is valid for the new motherboard.  My question was related to this broken motherboard, if i will replace only the cipset ARM, than shall i do some special flashing, or SD variant is still valid?because i suppose that a new ARM, will come empty. 

Thank you! 

Samuel Pinches

For the broken one, if you buy a ST-Link ($5 on ebay) you can try to reflash it from a PC quite easily. If that doesn't work you could try to resolder a new ARM STM32 chip. Before buying a new chip I would check the 3.3V and 5V power rails have the correct voltages so that there are no other obvious defects on the board.

Stephen Todd

As far as I know, you can get ARM chip with bootloader installed, but they are usually completely blank

The only way I could imagine you can flash from SD card is if you fit a ARM with bootloader pre installed

I wouldn't want to solder wires to the board to flash the ARM directly

Samuel may be able to advise

Edit, looks like if you buy a genuine ARM chip, the bootloader is pre-installed in the factory - probably the Chinese knock offs that don't have the bootloader

Silviu

Hi, 

Samuel, can you indicate in one picture which are the pins which I need to check, for 3.3v and 5v?

Thank you both! 

Samuel Pinches

@Silviu, there are multiple points where there will be 3.3V, as the SD card and CPU will run on 3.3V. I think you will find 5V for the CH341 serial-to-usb chip, and I think (60% sure) for some of the endstops too. I hope that helps you get started. If you poke around with a multimeter you should hopefully be able to find multiple places for these voltages. 3.3V is critical for the CPU.

madsen

Silivus, pleas check if your printer is it A5s or A5 as your photo looks like the A5 the system motherboard and display is different and software to

Silviu

Hi, 

I'm 100% sure that is A5S. See picture, from inside. 
Samuel, i have checked the tension, and looks ok. The main problem is controller from motherboard. They will send a new one monday... Thank you all for your help. 

Silviu

Hi everyone,

Somehow i have manage to buy a new PCB from DE, in order to keep my printer "alive"... JGAurora is sending me another one from China, and this will take some weeks...

Only new PCB solved white display issue, for me... 

I have place some radiators over certain components, and now I'm ready to print.

I have decide to go on with custom firmware, and I can tell you that result are really spectacular, compared to original firmware. 

You have made a great job. 

Thank you all!!! 

Samuel Pinches

Nice job @Silviu ! Great to hear you're up and running again