How? and Why did it fail? and how do i fix it?

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Im hoping someone much more experience then myself can look at these pictures and tell me exactly what went wrong with these prints and how to fix it, first time ive had this problem and ive done some googling but its easier to post pics here then to describe it specifically enough for google to help me

[img]https://i.imgur.com/DnWQhO4.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/AF7YDD3.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/3jhMxHN.jpg[/img]

tried to just reprint it but i aborted it when it started to look all messed up and melty again...

This is 1.75mm Hyperion PLA
using JGcreat slicer
on my JG Aurora A5S

Layer Height - .3mm
Wall Thickness - 1.2mm
Horizontal Expansion - -.275mm
Infill - 45%
Printing Temp - 210C
Build Plate Temp - 50C
Print Speed - 40mm/s
Travel Speed - 90mm/s
Support Touching Buildplate
and on the second attempt I used a 20 count Brim

Thanks in advance guys and gals i look forward to hearing from you.

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

I re-mesh leveled the print bed and the corners, cold and tried to print a different part and got the same result.

Stephen Todd

No point in re-meshing a cold bed - you have to have the bed and nozzle at working temperature

However, this is not looking like a bed level problem - but completely messed up slicer settings

Its so bad, I can only suggest you download and use Cura V4.4x and set the profile to JGAurora A5s in Cura settings and see how it comes out

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

I used Cura when i was printing with PETG because it had a PETG profile where JGcreat did not but for some reason iv always had better luck printing PLA with JGcreat when i tried to use Cura 4.5 with PLA the nozzle was extruding and trying to print way above the print bed for someone reason and i couldn't figure out why it kept trying to do that, ill heat up the bed and nozzle to working temps and relevel the bed and try Cura once more and see what happens i guess.

Samuel Pinches

Looks to me like filament is set to 2.85mm not 1.75mm in cura, I agree it looks like settings are wacked up

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

double checked Cura and JGcreat both are set to 1.75, not even able to change it if i wanted to, JGcreat got good bed adhesion and made a good brim but part still came out melty and wacked out, Cura wouldnt even get any bed adhesion so i used JGcreat to make the brim then aborted and switched Cura. pictured below is my setting for each slicer and how the prints turned out, i had several good solid prints a couple days ago and since those prints i havnt changed anything so i dont understand why this is happening all the sudden but im hoping maybe some one here can help me figure it out.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/qqKJm7k.png[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/SFvoHNL.png[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/smCEbSf.png[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/UJZf9Jy.png[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/794tj0w.png[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/FYsKdFi.png[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/YoBjVj1.png[/img]

Left is JGCreat
Right is Cura

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ESbbACy.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/aq1OQwX.jpg[/img]

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

anyone have any ideas?...rly frustrating not being able to print anything without is looking all melty and messedup

Samuel Pinches

You can set filament diameter in cura. It is in the material manager. Can you please upload a gcode for us? Cheers. Which firmware are you using?

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Using 1.75mm Hyperion PLA Green I'll upload a gcode in just a bit

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

heres the gcode ive been using sliced from cura

Samuel Pinches

Thanks.

- Did you check the material diameter in Cura?

- Which printer firmware are you using?

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

using the community firmware.

unloaded the green wiped the bed down with alcohol and re-mesh leveled the bed and corners with bed and nozzle heated up this time and loaded in my new roll of Zyltech 1.75mm White PLA and im printing calibration pieces now, so far they look good...just a bad spot in that green filament maybe? idk i dont understand it, cant wait until i have some more experience under my belt and can troubleshoot this stuff better.

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Infill looks gnarly but the walls dont look too bad, so far.

Samuel Pinches

that infill looks pretty gnarly indeed! I would do an axis scale calibration check: use pronterface to check that when you manually move 10cm on any axis, that it actually moves that much. You can do this for the filament too - check that when you extrude 100mm, 100mm of filament is used up. More or less will cause printing problems.

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Never used pronterface before but I will look into it and report back with my findings later on this evening, thanks much again for all ur help and responses thus far, much appreciated man.

Laser8302

In your first post, you said you set your horizontal expansion to 0.275mm? Start with 0.0, typically I find that I need negative values to make holes the right size. positive values will make your part larger than it needs to be.

Looks like over-extrusion. I second Samuel's suggestion about the extruder steps per mm.

Here's how to calibrate:
Heat the nozzle and mark a spot on the filament 120mm from the extruder.
Send these commands in pronterface:
G28 ;Home X, Y, Z and E axis
G0 X150 Y150 Z100 F6000;Move to center of bed up in the air
G1 E100 F120 ;Feed 100mm of filament at 2mm/s
M104 S0 ;Turn off hotend

Now measure how much filament you have left.
Calculation:
((120 - Remaining filament)/100)* (E steps per mm) = Calculated new E-steps
To find your E steps, type M92 in pronterface. It should tell you how many steps per mm each axis has.
Then type M92 E(Caclulated new E-steps)

Alternate way:
Disconnect the bowden tube
Put the filament into the extruder and cut it flush with the output connector
Send these commands in pronterface: 
M302 P0 ;allow cold extrusion
G28 ;Home X, Y, Z and E axis
G0 X150 Y150 Z100 F6000;Move to center of bed up in the air
G1 E20 F120 ;Feed 20mm of filament at 2mm/s
M302 P1 ;require hot end to be at temp to extrude

Now cut off the filament and maybe extrude more fialment by typing
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
M302 P0
G1 E20 F120

Type the last line 2 or 3 times

Get yourself 2-3 pieces and measure with calipers. 
calculate:
(averaged measured amount/20)*Current E-steps = Calculated E-steps
then
M92 E(Calcualted E-steps)

Stephen Todd

I'd try Anycubic filament as its good and you can usually find a price deal on Amazon for £20 or less - and it sticks well to any bed surface - but you can roller on water diluted PVA wood/fabric adhesive 75 percent water 25 percent adhesive - you can't get the parts off then until the bed goes completely cold

Have you set Cura to A5s profile that is built in and selectable?

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Awesome! thanks so much again Laser the reason i did -.275 was because i printed several calibration puzzle piece parts trying to fit them together and baby stepped until they fit so -.275 seems to be the horizontal expansion sweet spot for me where things fit together perfectly.

and yes Stephen both Cura and JGcreat are both set up as the A5S printer settings, i try to use default preset profiles as much as i can and not change temp or speed too much because thats where i seem to have the best luck as far as bed adhesion and overall successful printing

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

followed the steps above and everything seemed to come out right, math seemed to all come out correct nothing was off as far as i could tell but then again iv never done this before so may very well be doing something wrong.

ran a 12 hour print overnight and while i was at work and it doesnt look great...but also not terrible...has some good spots and bad spots, the inside looks to be the worst of it but thats the part no one will ever see so im not too worried about it and the bad spots on the outside can always be sanded down and cleaned up later so idk i guess ill just keep printing and hope the issue fixes itself?... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Samuel Pinches

Something is definitely stuffed. This is not normal. I would go to 0.15mm layer heights to start with, as 0.3mm is too thick unless you're using a 0.5mm or larger nozzle (stock nozzle is 0.4mm).

Stephen Todd

I'm looking at the widest part of the vase - which is the part that's printed the best - can't explain why, but it could be relevant

If this had happened to me, I'd be trying a different filament in an effort to remove that from the list of possibilities, as well as trying a slicer other than Cura

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

I've been using both Cura and JGcreat and the issue started with my green filament and is better with the white pla but still not perfect so imo slicer settings and filament have both alrdy been eliminated as potential culprits 

Samuel Pinches

@Kenneth Lloyd Boller
did you see my suggestion about layer height?

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

yes, going to try that on the next piece and see how it comes out, like Stephen said tho, its weird how the fattest widest part is the nicest and cleanest and its always worse up top then it is on the bottom. i dont understand why tho or how to fix it.

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Awesome! thanks so much again Laser8302 the reason i did -.275 was because i printed several calibration puzzle piece parts trying to fit them together and baby stepped until they fit so -.275 seems to be the horizontal expansion sweet spot for me where things fit together perfectly.

and yes Stephen both Cura and JGcreat are both set up as the A5S printer settings, i try to use default preset profiles as much as i can and not change temp or speed too much because thats where i seem to have the best luck as far as bed adhesion and overall successful printing.

thank you all so much for your responses much appreciated indeed.

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Awesome! thanks so much again Laser8302 the reason i did -.275 was because i printed several calibration puzzle piece parts trying to fit them together and baby stepped until they fit so -.275 seems to be the horizontal expansion sweet spot for me where things fit together perfectly.

and yes Stephen both Cura and JGcreat are both set up as the A5S printer settings, i try to use default preset profiles as much as i can and not change temp or speed too much because thats where i seem to have the best luck as far as bed adhesion and overall successful printing

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

Awesome! thanks so much again Laser8302 the reason i did -.275 was because i printed several calibration puzzle piece parts trying to fit them together and baby stepped until they fit so -.275 seems to be the horizontal expansion sweet spot for me where things fit together perfectly.

and yes Stephen both Cura and JGcreat are both set up as the A5S printer settings, i try to use default preset profiles as much as i can and not change temp or speed too much because thats where i seem to have the best luck as far as bed adhesion and overall successful printing

Laser8302

Double check your retraction settings. Bowden with PLA should be around 3 to 5mm at 35-40mm/s. Maybe looks a bit over-extruded? Reduce flow to 0.95 (95%?) How many shells are you printing? I usually start with 3 and for added strength, I'll use up to 5. It takes more time but I end up with a piece that looks better in the end.

Stephen Todd

Looking at the last photo showing the inner support parts, those parts look quite good - so could be the shell/vase settings are badly wrong

Kenneth Lloyd Boller

I will double check those settings when I get home, tried printing the servo bed with a layer height of .15 instead of .3 and it came out almost worse...had thick "strings"? (Too big and thick to be called strings but cant think of another way to decribe it rn) Coming off of it all over.

Stephen Todd

Something occured to me - it could be that you have a blown out nozzle? - could be something really simple causing such a bad print - I remember somebody having similar problems and it turned out to be the end of the nozzle was cratered