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A5S Calibration and printing problems (beginner questions, may be irrelevant sorry)

Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
in Modifications & Upgrades
Hi everyone, I tried to search the solution for my problem within the forum but I couldn't find. If there is any answer sorry for that. 
My A5S is quite old but I've managed to be able to use it for like a month. I've printed some successful designs and quite satisfied with the result. But now It literally can't print anything. It seems that leveling at the center of the bed can't be done. There is always a gap between the nozzle and the bed, even when the corners are really tight leveled. I'd be glad for some help! Thank you. 

Comments

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited April 2020
    Welcome @Aykut Ecevit !
    Under normal operation the centre of the bed will be fractionally higher than the edges. It sounds like the opposite in your case!
    • Are you levelling it with the bed hot?
    • Are the clips still connected on all the 4 sides?
    • Do you have a metal ruler or other very straight edge you can check the flatness of the bed with?
    • With the bed fully cold, try removing all the clips and then remounting the bed. Then heat the bed, and check the flatness again.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
    Hi Samuel, thanks for the answer. It doesn't matter if I level it cold or hot. Same result anyway. Yes all the clips are connected. Done the ruler thing and it is flat. I'll check the bed without the glass after heating. And post the result in 1 hour. Thanks a lot!
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    @Aykut Ecevit  - sorry, can you clarify, you are saying that "leveling at the center of the bed can't be done. There is always a gap between the nozzle and the bed, even when the corners are really tight leveled" but that you've "Done the ruler thing and it is flat"? That doesn't make sense to me. If you use a metal ruler, you can shine a light under it like this to view bed warp.
  • Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
    Hi Samuel, now I removed the glass and checked the metal plate with ruler. Yes there is a gap which is not visible with the glass on. Is there a way to flatten the metal or should I check for a spare part? Thank you for your support. 
  • Stephen ToddStephen Todd Posts: 281🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Installing the custom firmware, doing mesh bed levelling routine, saving the mesh, putting mesh recall gcode in the start box of your slicer will solve your problems - will be like having a perfectly level bed
  • Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
    Super. I really appreciate! How can I find the custom firmware?
  • Stephen ToddStephen Todd Posts: 281🌟 Super Member 🌟
    https://jgmakerforum.com/discussion/896/how-to-use-mesh-bed-leveling-on-custom-firmware

    Your printer needs the A5s version (1,621 happy users)
  • Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
    Thank you Stephen! 
  • Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
    Hi guys. I've managed to update the marlin software and then did the mesh bed leveling with Printrun. (Running on a mac) The first steps of the print seemed to be ok but then the printed thin layer just wrapped around the nozzle. I've tried several bed and extruder heats. Changed the model I'm trying to print but each time it appeared to be the same result. I'm quite suspicious about the cura beginning and ending G-codes. 

    Start-Gcode

    G28 ; M420 S1

    G1 Z15.0 F1000 ; Move up 15mm at 1000mm/min

    G92 E0 ; Reset extruder length to zero

    G1 X0.0 Y0.0 F1000.0 ; go to edge of print area

    G1 Z0.200 F1000.0 ; Go to Start Z position

    G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line

    G1 X100.0 E21.5 F1000.0 ; intro line

    G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position


    End - Gcode

    G91; Set relative positioning mode

    G1 E-5 F600; retract filament slightly

    M140 S0; Turn off the bed heater

    M104 S0; Turn off the nozzle heater

    G28 X; M420 S1

    G0 Y280 F600; Bring the bed to the front for easy print removal

    M84; Turn off the motors


    may be it is due to a code here but I have no idea. 

    I know I've asked a lot but just couldn't find the solution on my own. Would be glad for a help. 

    Thank you!

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited May 2020
    M420 S1 should be on its own line if you want to use mesh bed levelling - is this the case? Have you read the guide how to use mesh bed levelling that is linked on the firmware page?


    Thanked by 1Aykut Ecevit
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • Aykut EcevitAykut Ecevit Posts: 7Member
    I Watched the video tutorial and read the page with these codes. I'll try to copy M420 to a new line and give another shot. Thank you. 
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    M420 S1 is the key command that turns on mesh bed levelling at the start of the print, right after the G28 home command. The semi colon marks the end of the line - any text after that is just a comment
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator


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