Home JGAurora A5S, A1 & A3S-V2 Modifications & Upgrades

Hotend upgrade

mclambglasdmclambglasd Posts: 5Member
edited June 2020 in Modifications & Upgrades
Looking to find a hotend upgrade that will attached without Much customization trying to print petg. 245 is the maximum heat output and it causes back up please any suggestions on hot end upgrades that I can seamlessly install
Post edited by mclambglasd on

Comments

  • spooknikspooknik Posts: 19Member
    edited June 2020
    The stock hotend will print PETG just fine. I print mine between 220 and 230. No need to upgrade just to do that.

    Otherwise you can swap in a mircoswiss all metal heatbreak and you should be good for temps higher than 245.

    You'll need thehttps://firmware.jgmakerwiki.com/ custom Marlin firmware to allow the hotend to get hotter as well.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by spooknik on
  • mclambglasdmclambglasd Posts: 5Member
    Ty I really appreciate the help. I did try printing at 240 in the outside looks amazing but the infill on the inside wasn't connecting. So the outside wall look really smooth and clean but the inside had all this non perfect lumpy infill any suggestions
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    @mclambglasd what infill % are you using? Does this print work with PLA? Have you done simple PETG or PLA test prints successfully?
  • giantrobot2001giantrobot2001 Posts: 106🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited June 2020
    I bought cheap transparent PETG from microcenter and used temp 242 and 40 for the speed I did a 1 inch test box and it laid down real nice, perfect print first time on the A5S ... and it sticks to 75degree blue tape like it's bolted in place... first layer seems normal. I have no idea how to calibrate the extruder so great...

    Then I do a thin wall curvy design for a covid mask, thinking it will look good and be a little transparent. It was a bit stringy, and the material has more cloudy bumpy in it than it should... I watched the head it wasn't coming out liquidy when the head would shake and jiggle doing the deposit, makes gobs then it comes back and smooths it down.  Just seems like it needed to be hotter.  I want to be able to get the head up to 260 or 265, and I think I want to print one of those improved air snouts under the blower.

    how high of a temp will the all metal one be reliable for?
    Post edited by giantrobot2001 on
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