Homeβ€Ί JGAurora A5 & A3Sβ€Ί Modifications & Upgrades

v6 steel?

MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟

Hi, if I would use a steel v6 in order to print carbon pla (whose version is given at 220Β° by the brand), it is there something else to modify?

Comments

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 145Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited October 12

    Hi Matt. Steel will not last either. It will get worn by printing 40g of CF filament as it is very abrasive. Trust me, I know already. I worn 3 before I realized what is wrong. You need to purchase hardened steel nozzle. It is black. Extruder gear(default brass) will be also worn out very quickly..Also be warned for clogging. 0,4mm will be clogged very often by filament having micro carbon particles. You need at least 0,5mm. I am printing carbon filament on my MicroRap100(from Thingiverse). I already depleted 19kg of material with same 0.5mm nozzle(NozzleX)..This filament is miracle. Also be warned, that CF filament is very brittle on spool, so any strong bending will break it. After printing, it is indestructible.

    My material: Profilaments PETG Carbon20(250/60, 55mm/s)

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by michalko99 on
  • MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Hi Micha (good to read you again and generally everybody replying here ;-) ...). Ok thanks. Perhaps a 0.8 hardened would be even better than 0,4, or the problem isn't just the diameter, but any steel nozzles, albeit hardened? What's about a ruby v6 (if ever they exist)?

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 145Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    hi Matt. No, Olsson makes ruby only 0.4mm. Just buy hardened nozzle or nozzleX(hardened and chemically treated) from e3d and stainless steel extruder gear. In my work we have BCN3D Sigma Epsilon(complete CRAP) and mounted 0.8mm nozzle. Forget about any details and sharp edges. I am printing with 0.5mm and everything is nice and no clogging.

    Thanked by 1Matt
  • MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Ok.
    I'm about finishing the cover for the printhead. In short time I'll post a thread to show it up. I'll need your help I guess, for the led placement on the nose. I have a doubt now, anyway: what plug can I use to plug/unplug also the filament "sensor"?

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 145Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    what voltage are your LEDs? If you have 24V strip, you can connect it in parallel to cold end fan and you are good. If 12V, you will need step down converter

  • MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Not sure how to do. I've thought to get some leds, I've got some but I dunno the voltage.

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 145Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    I designed this long time ago. So far no need for servicing and all LEDs are still working..

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3406342

    Michal

  • MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited October 18

    Yes, I know that, that's why I told you about mine. Though it is too complex for my knowledges. I was thinking just to 1-3 leds sparking from the "foot" of the printhead's cover I'm printing, just in order to have a visibility of how the printing is going.

    Post edited by Matt on
  • MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited October 18

    I need to have also the ability to plug and unplug the filament detection wire, in order to insert it in the news system of cable holding I'm adapting to the cover: what kind of connector could do the job? A simple 2 pins xh25.4 / micro JST 2.0?

    Post edited by Matt on
  • GandyGandy Posts: 87🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Yes, that should do. There are no currents to speak of that would require considering. I would however recommend to use a self-securing type to not shake the connector loose during printing.
    If you intend on printing with the run-out sensor unplugged, you might want to prepare a dummy plug that shorts the two wires on the cable: The sensor is normally closed, so a missing sensor would appear as if the filament was missing.

    Thanked by 1Matt
  • MattMatt Posts: 303🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited October 18

    Thanks. No, I want to have it always plugged: the ability to plug/unplug is just needed in order to be able to pull in or out the wire inside the new mail sleeve (replacing the pesky corrugated tube) which will hold all the current wires going to the printead elements, which are by default all pluggable/unpluggable except from the one of the detector (and the one of the cartridge...).

    Post edited by Matt on
  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 145Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    OK. So any micro JST will do the job. But If you did not modified anything, I recommend you to purchase 24V led strip and cut smallest section. Just do not purchase high powered one, as it will heat up-they are deigned to be adhered to aluminum bar. 5050 cold or neutral white will be fine. If you want to use individual LEDs , you will need to use this:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001621970152.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.854a67cfQ8tV4I&algo_pvid=8ae1056d-a72e-4c64-8b0a-74bf333d409e&aem_p4p_detail=202110181918582088409348154360004371803&algo_exp_id=8ae1056d-a72e-4c64-8b0a-74bf333d409e-5&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000016846488850"%7D

    to regulate output voltage to match your LED. Smaller one cannot be used, as their MAX voltage is 23V.

    @Gandy : A5 has N/O filament sensor. If you unplug it, printer will behave as there is always filament inserted. Mine was making problems since beginning, so I left it unplugged and never connected it back

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