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Broken steppers?
Jari Christopherson
Posts: 11Active Member
Hello! I've received my JGAurora A5 last week and calibrated it, everything was fine. I flashed the community firmware and tried to calibrate again, except as soon as I made it go to the first point, I heard a loud clicking noise, as if it tried to get into position when it already was? anyway, I started smelling smoke and immediately turned it off and unplugged it. When I turned it back on, the Y axis and Z axis didn't work at all anymore. The LCD still worked fine, so I'm assuming the board is still intact. I checked the steppers and while I'm no expert, the connection seemed a lot more orangey than say, my bowden stepper (the one shown at the top) I'm assuming the Z axis stepper and Y axis steppers got burnt.
So, which stepper do I get? I know there's links to pieces and parts on here but they don't really look the same. I'm a little lost. I heard the Y axis motor needs to be more powerful? I really don't want to mess this up more than I already have. Also, how do I keep this from happening in the future? Thanks in advance!
So, which stepper do I get? I know there's links to pieces and parts on here but they don't really look the same. I'm a little lost. I heard the Y axis motor needs to be more powerful? I really don't want to mess this up more than I already have. Also, how do I keep this from happening in the future? Thanks in advance!
Comments
I'd bet that the stepper motors are fine. Takes a fair bit to kill them. Much more likely to be the stepper drivers that have died.
After your error description, I would guess that a limit switch does not work. The collision and further stress could have overloaded a stepper driver. I assume that you have not measured the correct setting of the stepper driver VREF voltage (setting the motor current) before startup. If the value was set too high, then the Stepper Driver can blow. Overheating protection is too slow in this case. Until it reacts it is already too late.
Therefore, I advise you to check the function of the limit switches (mechanical and electrical).
Greetings
AETEK
I didn't see any screws on the drivers though, so I'm not sure how I would've been able to tune them? I don't really know where I was supposed to set it otherwise.
Does that mean I have to get another limit switch, as well as the drivers?
You can test the limit switches by hand using pronterface, and by sending command M119 to get the status of all switches, pressed or unpressed.
the Z axis was too close to the build plate. I lifted it up a little so that the build plate didn't have to be lowered too much...
Went to level the build plate, loosened it up a bit...then the black screw things fell off. can't even get them back on anymore. the screw that's attached to the build plate is also loose, as in, it spins freely.
can something with this printer finally go right? x.x
I went "screw it" (no pun intended) and bought the closest equivalent I could find in imperial: 6-32. I knew I needed 40mm of lenght so it was about an inch and a half. I bought washers (I needed split locks but I bought flats instead, d'oh) with it and even springs and a wing nut to replace the stupid knob. SOMEHOW everything fits...but I know I need to be careful with the heat bed. Can anyone tell me if this will cause a short? I've heard something about the springs of the leveling screws being dangerous if they come into contact with the bed. I see the heat element and the washer is touching it. Is it a problem? I'll be frantically refreshing until anyone gives me their approval (or disapproval) for this x.x
EDIT: so from what I learned, it has to do with the paint scraping off, not just about the metal making contact? but paint has already been scraped off right under the split locks. I'm guessing it's a problem if it touches the heating element while the paint's off? can anyone confirm?
EDIT#2: I took the original split locks and stretched them with pliers so they fit the new screws. problem solved. The only problem now is that the added space between the surface and the spring made it REALLY HARD to make the screws go through the holes. I was terrified of bending the glass and putting too much stress on the rails when I was pushing them in. I probably bent something but man is it much easier to adjust the levels now.
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