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Flashing new firmware
bargo100
Posts: 18Member
Hi,
First question:
In your video I saw no information about removing any connector while flashing the Marlin software.
So, is this necessary or not?
Second question:
I found no information how to flash the firmware for the LCD display.
What must be connected or disconnected?
Greatings from Bavaria, Germany
Bart
First question:
In your video I saw no information about removing any connector while flashing the Marlin software.
So, is this necessary or not?
Second question:
I found no information how to flash the firmware for the LCD display.
What must be connected or disconnected?
Greatings from Bavaria, Germany
Bart
Comments
1. I strongly recommend to unplug the 10pin cable when flashing the Marlin software. If there is communication between the LCD and motherboard during flashing, this can corrupt the firmware.
Greetings from sunny Melbourne, Australia!
Sam
The firmware for the A3s is a collection of bugs.
Now the tmperature and heating management is comletely shit. (Sorry, but thats fact.)
The upheating before printing doesn't function.
It shows that the real temperatures have reached the nominal temperatures, but this is wrong. The bed heating is out of action completely. The print doesn't start.
If you turn the power off and on, then you can see the factual temperatures on the display and they are for miles away from the nominal temperatures. It is not possible to start a print with this bug-software.
I'm really disappointed.
I'm really sorry to hear that... but this is the first I'm hearing of any problems with the A3S firmware! I don't have one, so all I have is what I was able to gather from other A3S members testing it for me. I do apologise, and without having an A3S myself, unless you would like to help me troubleshoot, there is not much I can do. The stock A3S firmware for both LCD and mainboard is linked on the wiki, you will just have to stick with that instead.
If so, can you give me the 100% correct library?
There are bugs in the temperatur management!
With my German English it is a little bit difficult to describe it, but lets try.
For example:
When starting to print a part from the usb stick, the device is heating up the the bed to the nominal temperatur.
When the temperatur is reached it tries to reach the nozzle nominal temperatur, too.
After reaching the nominal nozzle temperatur the heating for the bed and the nozzle doesn't turn on again.
The display shows that both nominal temperatures are reached, but the real temperatures are decreasing, because both heaters are off. When turning OFF/ON the printer you can see, that both temperatures are down.
Mostly the printers behavior is as described, but sometimes a little bit different. Once the printer startet after first reaching the nominal temperatures, but after few centimeter printing line it stopped. The interface didn't accept any command. Only turning OFF was possible.
Obviously on the one side, there is an internal freeze in the temperature management. The one-time reached nominal temperatures are freezed. It doesnt' recognize the real decrease of the temperatures.
On the other side, the "program starting manager" can see that the nominal temperatures are not given, so a print cannot be started.
I don't believe that hardware faults are causing this problems, because with the original software this problems are not existing.
But with the original software other problems are existing.
So my last hope for any senseful using of this shit device is, to find an advanced firmware, which can handle this device.
pronterface ?
PID tune ?
I would like only to print with this device, not to develop printers.
I had to improve some mechanical lacks and to adjust some parameters, but in general it runs and runs and runs!
I wasted so much time with this shit device. For nothing!!!
Any additonal hour is an additional wasted hour.
I thought not to be stupid, I'm a mechanical engineer, but not an information scientist.
When this "high sophisticated" device with its standard components needs software professionals to make it workung, then I'm too stupid.
When it is not possible to work with a flashed firmware, then it is not worth for me to invest additonal time.
It's easier to use me Geeetech clone,
It has a primitive outfit, but it works without pronterface and any other software tuning very well.
Thanks
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