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Nozzle sizes
Hi all community users,
As you probably know, 99% users are only focusing on 0.4mm nozzle, as standard delivery with most of the printer and thinks this is the only option!.
But it's somewhere false… Try other sizes.
perhaps, I made some try with 0.6mm nozzle, and the visual difference is quite imperceptible.
But you win 30% printing timming.
You have several choices going from 0.25mm or less to 1mm size
So I open this topic to begin and exchange…
Good weekend
As you probably know, 99% users are only focusing on 0.4mm nozzle, as standard delivery with most of the printer and thinks this is the only option!.
But it's somewhere false… Try other sizes.
perhaps, I made some try with 0.6mm nozzle, and the visual difference is quite imperceptible.
But you win 30% printing timming.
You have several choices going from 0.25mm or less to 1mm size
So I open this topic to begin and exchange…
Good weekend
Post edited by Enrique Riri on
Comments
pi*0.4mm² = 0.126mm²
pi*0.6mm² = 0.283mm²
0.126mm² * x = 0.283mm²
x = 2.25
So you actually print at max 225% the speed of a 0.4mm nozzle!
*smart ass mode off*
Sorry...
You are of course right using different nozzles is important.
But I do not think the heater and the heating block are up to 0.8mm and 1mm nozzles.
Has anyone tried?
If i want have some text and digit signs on surfaces - i am use 0.25 or 0.3mm.
For printing boxes - 0.5-0.6mm.
Anyway, the printing time for me not so important as quality and strength
I've looked on the Spare Parts website and they only sell the standard 0.4mm nozzle.
When I look at Amazon.ca (Canada) they have quite a selection but they do not specify the thread size (M6) and some of the photos show the material to be quite porous (holes/pits/voids in the material) where the threads are machined which indicates inferior material. Most is brass and some are plated and others stainless steel.
What material is best?
I am trying to print very small detailed parts (9 pound naval cannon barrel at 1:64 scale, circa 1780) and after a number of failed attempts have decided I should try a smaller nozzle but am at a loss as to where to go and be sure I get a part that will fit my A5 machine.
Is the M6 thread also a standard across all manufacturers?
Thanks for any help offered.
Alan
Smaller size would be less volume flow so no concern?
So...
Is M6 a standard nozzle thread for all manufactured 3D printers?
Is Brass better than Plated or Stainless Steel? (Would Brass not conduct the heat better, but being softer it might be more susceptible to damage?)
Where would I purchase a 0.2 or 0.25 mm nozzle?
Thanks again.
Normal users are happy with brass 0.4mm, speed is fine and you can work with that very good.
Copper nozzles are fine for high temperatures. Hardend steel is fine for carbon, wood and glowing fillament but can end in not so good quality, you also have to set higher temperatures.
Stainless steel I think is used for food contact prints and you can also use it like the hardend nozzles.
Maybe that helps a bit.
Any suggestions?
I was hoping "werewolf" might respond as they have all sizes and got them somewhere other than the original printer manufacturer.
I usually order my upgrade/spare parts in china and they always put a few nozzles in the package (extruder, hotend, heater cartrige, heating block... everything comes with nozzles), by now I have arround 30 nozzles without paying more than 5$ for actually ordering nozzles^^ although more than half of them are 0.4mm...
I did not find any quality difference when using brass nozzles, they all work the same.
So if the nozzle is M6 and it is not a CR10 nozzle, it will most likely fit.
I dont see the real need of hardend steel exapt you print a lot abrasive stuff.
The hardend steel nozzle doesnt have such a good quality than brass have.
So for me, I change them and than I have a fresh new brass nozzle. Better than a old hardend steel nozzle.
Stainless steel nozzle are for nothing, thats why they are rare.
Look at amazon or aliexpress for 10pcs packs, they are very cheap.
Ah and smaler nozzles longer print time you know, for me, a 0,4mm nozzle does take long enough. Better invest time in a perfect slicer setting and you get better results than using simply a 0,25mm nozzle at doubel of time and same result. A 0,25 nozzle would have a normal layer high of 0,12 and a fine high of 0,6 but for what?
From that I was able to find the item on the amazon.ca (Canada) site.
From that I was able to narrow my search and found a group of 10 nozzles (2 of each size 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6mm) that will work (M6 thread).
I can buy two 0.2mm nozzles for half the price of the package of ten... but the ten is a pretty good deal.
I may be able to print my tiny cannon barrels sooner than I thought.
Der_Muck - I'm looking at aliexpress now.
Thank you for the suggestion.
I ordered packages of four nozzles (4 of one size in a package) from AliExpress in the following sizes
0.2, 0.3, 0.6, 0.8 mm, all for a fraction of the price.
I may have to wait a month or more but I am retired and on a budget so every penny helps.
Regarding the settings with different nozzles, I have some questions:
I assume we need on the slicer to adapt the diam value to right used nozzle.
Do we need also to change the speed and other params ?
Or the slicer will adapt automatickly?
I use SD3.
Thanks for your inputs.
- change nozzle diameter
- change layer thickness / first layer thickness
- check if wall thickness is still a multiple of nozzle diameter
With a thinner nozzle you might need higher temps, less part cooling and different bridging settings, I do not know that for sure.
I use Ultimaker CURA 3.6.0 and when I chose the print quality that defaults other settings to suit.
Then you need to tweek to suit the quality of the filament (flow %, temperature, print speed) and maybe fan speeds at different levels. Some filaments print better with default settings than others. BLACK PLA was my worst experience to date (from Amazon) and YELLOW PLA (supplied with the printer) my best.... but I've only a very short time of experience to draw on and have found this forum (reviewing past posts and asking questions) has helped.
A magic wand would make it all easier.
Diameter changes would need different settings. Small nozzles cant print as fast as bigger once, thats logic. Ofcause a smaler nozzle would mean that the bed leveling would have to be even more accurate than it has to be for 0,4mm
Imagen, at 0,4mm it would be 0,15-0,2mm between nozzle and bed.
For a 0,2mm it would be 0,05-0,1mm for the first layer. Thats realy a heavy job to get the printer to that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078HHF42C/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_5?ie=UTF8&smid=A3K0Z59F8V0HKE&th=1
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