Home JGAurora A5 & A3S Modifications & Upgrades

Nozzle sizes

Enrique RiriEnrique Riri Posts: 37🌟 Super Member 🌟
edited January 2019 in Modifications & Upgrades
Hi all community users,

As you probably know, 99% users are only focusing on 0.4mm nozzle, as standard delivery with most of the printer and thinks this is the only option!.
But it's somewhere false… Try other sizes.
perhaps, I made some try with 0.6mm nozzle, and the visual difference is quite imperceptible.
But you win 30% printing timming.
You have several choices going from 0.25mm or less to 1mm size
So I open this topic to begin and exchange…
Good weekend

Post edited by Enrique Riri on


  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    *smart ass mode on*
    pi*0.4mm² = 0.126mm²
    pi*0.6mm² = 0.283mm²
    0.126mm² * x = 0.283mm²
    x = 2.25

    So you actually print at max 225% the speed of a 0.4mm nozzle!
    *smart ass mode off*

    You are of course right using different nozzles is important. 
    But I do not think the heater and the heating block are up to 0.8mm and 1mm nozzles.

    Has anyone tried?

  • WerewolfWerewolf Posts: 27Member
    I am use all extruders 0.2-0.25-0.3-0.4-0.6-0.8mm. The choose depends from model configurtaion first of all.
    If i want have some text and digit signs on surfaces - i am use 0.25 or 0.3mm.
    For printing boxes - 0.5-0.6mm.
    Anyway, the printing time for me not so important as quality and strength
  • AONAON Posts: 19Member
    Could you please suggest where one might purchase different size nozzles.

    I've looked on the Spare Parts website and they only sell the standard 0.4mm nozzle.

    When I look at Amazon.ca (Canada) they have quite a selection but they do not specify the thread size (M6) and some of the photos show the material to be quite porous (holes/pits/voids in the material) where the threads are machined which indicates inferior material.  Most is brass and some are plated and others stainless steel.

    What material is best?

    I am trying to print very small detailed parts (9 pound naval cannon barrel at 1:64 scale, circa 1780) and after a number of failed attempts have decided I should try a smaller nozzle but am at a loss as to where to go and be sure I get a part that will fit my A5 machine. 

    Is the M6 thread also a standard across all manufacturers?

    Thanks for any help offered.
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 142🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Just bear in mind when changing nozzle size that the printer is limited in how fast it can melt the plastic for extrusion. Does anyone know what the limit is on these printers?
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • AONAON Posts: 19Member
    Would this only possibly be a concern for a larger than standard 0.4 mm size nozzle as it would be extruding more than the standard volume flow of material?

    Smaller size would be less volume flow so no concern?


    Is M6 a standard nozzle thread for all manufactured 3D printers?

    Is Brass better than Plated or Stainless Steel?  (Would Brass not conduct the heat better, but being softer it might be more susceptible to damage?)

    Where would I purchase a 0.2 or 0.25 mm nozzle?

    Thanks again.

  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 142🌟 Super Member 🌟
    If you're printing fine and you decrease the nozzle size but keep the speed the same, it shouldn't be an issue. It's technically something that needs to be accounted at all nozzle sizes though. In theory you could speed things up with a smaller nozzle but other factors come in to play.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Every material has a other optimal diameter and every speed to. The material dipends how apprasive a filament is. The quality depends of the quality of the nozzle, the speed, the printer and so on. There are very much variables which equal in a good or bad print.
    Normal users are happy with brass 0.4mm, speed is fine and you can work with that very good. 
    Copper nozzles are fine for high temperatures. Hardend steel is fine for carbon, wood and glowing fillament but can end in not so good quality, you also have to set higher temperatures.
    Stainless steel I think is used for food contact prints and you can also use it like the hardend nozzles. 
    Maybe that helps a bit.
  • AONAON Posts: 19Member
    It does help me but I still am uncertain as to where to purchase the smaller nozzles for an A5 printer.

    Any suggestions?

    I was hoping "werewolf" might respond as they have all sizes and got them somewhere other than the original printer manufacturer.
  • beatabeata Posts: 9Active Member
    I picked up this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796C4S5P/ Mainly been using the 0.2 and 0.4 and have been getting decent prints so far. Note, the spanner in this kit is not the correct one for the heat block. Which I did not know because I bought it before I received my printer. So, if there's a similar kit.
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    There are not many types of Nozzle and we seem to use the most common one.

    I usually order my upgrade/spare parts in china and they always put a few nozzles in the package (extruder, hotend, heater cartrige, heating block... everything comes with nozzles), by now I have arround 30 nozzles without paying more than 5$ for actually ordering nozzles^^ although more than half of them are 0.4mm...

    I did not find any quality difference when using brass nozzles, they all work the same.

    So if the nozzle is M6 and it is not a CR10 nozzle, it will most likely fit.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Brass nozzles are most common, cheap and does the most jobs very well.
    I dont see the real need of hardend steel exapt you print a lot abrasive stuff. 
    The hardend steel nozzle doesnt have such a good quality than brass have. 
    So for me, I change them and than I have a fresh new brass nozzle. Better than a old hardend steel nozzle.
    Stainless steel nozzle are for nothing, thats why they are rare.

    Look at amazon or aliexpress for 10pcs packs, they are very cheap.
    Ah and smaler nozzles longer print time you know, for me, a 0,4mm nozzle does take long enough. Better invest time in a perfect slicer setting and you get better results than using simply a 0,25mm nozzle at doubel of time and same result.    A 0,25 nozzle would have a normal layer high of 0,12 and a fine high of 0,6  but for what?
  • AONAON Posts: 19Member
    Beata - thank you for the link to amazon.com (USA)

    From that I was able to find the item on the amazon.ca (Canada) site.
    From that I was able to narrow my search and found a group of 10 nozzles (2 of each size 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6mm)  that will work (M6 thread).
    I can buy two 0.2mm nozzles for half the price of the package of ten... but the ten is a pretty good deal.

    I may be able to print my tiny cannon barrels sooner than I thought.

    Der_Muck - I'm looking at aliexpress now.

  • AONAON Posts: 19Member
    edited February 2019
    Thank you for the suggestion.

    I ordered packages of four nozzles (4 of one size in a package) from AliExpress in the following sizes 
    0.2, 0.3, 0.6, 0.8 mm,  all for a fraction of the price.

    I may have to wait a month or more but I am retired and on a budget so every penny helps.
    Post edited by AON on
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    That sound good, than you can experiment what fits you the best ;)
  • Enrique RiriEnrique Riri Posts: 37🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Regarding the settings with different nozzles, I have some questions:
    I assume we need on the slicer to adapt the diam value to right used nozzle.

    Do we need also to change the speed and other params ? 
    Or the slicer will adapt automatickly?
    I use SD3.
    Thanks for your inputs. 
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I do not have much experience with nozzle sizes but here is what I would do:

    - change nozzle diameter
    - change layer thickness / first layer thickness
    - check if wall thickness is still a multiple of nozzle diameter

    With a thinner nozzle you might need higher temps, less part cooling and different bridging settings, I do not know that for sure.
  • AONAON Posts: 19Member
    In my limited experience I've found that once you set the nozzle size and filament size everything else defaults to suit.
    I use Ultimaker CURA 3.6.0 and when I chose the print quality that defaults other settings to suit.
    Then you need to tweek to suit the quality of the filament (flow %, temperature, print speed) and maybe fan speeds at different levels.   Some filaments print better with default settings than others.  BLACK PLA was my worst experience to date (from Amazon) and YELLOW PLA (supplied with the printer) my best.... but I've only a very short time of experience to draw on and have found this forum (reviewing past posts and asking questions) has helped.

    A magic wand would make it all easier.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I never use the default settings, I always write a setting for each filament I get when I buy a new one. I print 2 test models and in the end of those test series I have the perfect setting for the nozzle diameter and filament. It takes a lot of prints and time but I can get sure that the filament profile is working and was tested well.

    Diameter changes would need different settings. Small nozzles cant print as fast as bigger once, thats logic. Ofcause a smaler nozzle would mean that the bed leveling would have to be even more accurate than it has to be for 0,4mm 
    Imagen, at 0,4mm it would be 0,15-0,2mm between nozzle and bed.
    For a 0,2mm  it would be 0,05-0,1mm for the first layer. Thats realy a heavy job to get the printer to that. 
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