Samuel! Are you paid by JGAurora?? You are incredible! Thank you for putting so much time into improving a product I’m not seeing you get any kickbacks from. You’re a wonderful human.
compiled the lastest bugfix-2.0.X, getting issue with the touchscreen, the + / - button would trigger additional presses in the opposite direction, making the touch screen unusable. Going back to the 2.0E
Hi I'm new here and just bought the A5S great printer and great community, I upgraded to the e3d v6 gold hotend and when I load my custom firmware it works but I get the same issue as ishtob is describing I'm using the latest bugfix-2.0x?
Welcome @Lususs - when I have time I will prepare a new build. Otherwise, if you can read the source code you can compare the files and see what changes have occurred. My working build sources are all available on my github fork. I don't have time at the moment, when I have time I will try work on a newer build.
Samuel I appreciate the response I'll have a look I was thinking it was something I was or wasn't doing when changing parameters or creating the firmware. Have a great holiday and happy new year.
Samuel et al the fix was to uncomment #define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 as well as #define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 1 seems to be working correctly now.
Hello Samuel, I have the 2.0D software on my A5S. If I heat the bed to 110 ° C, there is a heating fault. I think if the temperature rises too slowly in the end, an error message appears. If I heat up gradually, there is no mistake.
The practical max bed temperature on the A5/A5S is 100C, but you can push it to 105C. Problems start to occur at 110C.
The safety system in the printer expects the temperature to increase when the power is on. However, at 110C, the power input to the bed (electrical power) is equal to the rate of heat loss (cooling of the bed by the air) so the temperature does not increase beyond 110C. For this reason, the safety systems of the printer kick in and disable the printer because the rate of temperature increase is too slow.
I would suggest heating to 100C first, then setting 110C afterward. You will not achieve 110C if your ambient temperature is low, or if there is a breeze in the room. You may want to look at making an enclosure for printing.
If you place some insulation under the bed (e.g. cork sheet), you may improve the heating efficiency. If you place insulation on the top of the bed (e.g. two tissue boxes) during heat-up, it will be quicker too.
I think, the problem occurs at 90-95C. So I first heat to 90C, then always 5c higher. I didn't have the problem with the original software. Therefore i thought that a temperature increase might have to be reached within a certain time. If it is not reached, an alarm will come. Unfortunately you can only acknowledge the alarm by restarting the printer.
My printer already has a plexiglass case. Maybe I'm still trying to insulate the bed
@mat_kar the custom firmware has stricter safety settings than the original firmware. If you are willing to compile your own firmware I can provide you instructions with how to change the sensitivity of this alarm, but I stress that this is a core safety system on the printer.
posting this here and deleting it from the other thread as it seems more relevent here:
running a custom compiled from the latest bugfix-2.0.x branch on my A5S, having a lot of issues with linear advance.
I was getting a marked improvement with LA on, but started having issue with the printer freezing up a few hours into a print, requiring a power cycle.
LA k = 0.2, 0.5, 0.9, 1.2, and 1.6 tested, all with the same results, dont have solid data, but seem to freeze sooner with higher k values. LA k = 0 prints with no freezes Tried it with stock extruder as well as a BMG clone. same results.
Symptoms: - during printing, serial returns with "busy" every few lines of gcode sent. - few hours in, all movement stops. Hot end and bed heater remains on, all stepper still engaged (locked, unable to move them until powered off). serial monitor gets multiple busy, and octoprint eventually disconnects. ( I've disabled the M112 code send after multiple attempts to connect in octoprint to rule out the printer being emergency stopped by octoprint) - LCD screen looks like its normal operation, except for animations and text no longer updated (screen frozen) - LCD does not respond to touch - USB connection unable to establish connection until printer is power cycled.
I am stomped at this point on what to do but to disable LA, but am left with the issue of bulging corners and stringing again. Dai has recommended to follow the workaround here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/13040 , but test results were the same. upon inspecting the code, looks like the stepper the A5S already uses #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 1
Anyone else has encounter this issue with linear advance and able to resolve it?
Hi guys. I have touch screen problems with this new custom community firmware. If I go in the "move axes" menu and I try to move them, or I I pre-heat the nozzle/extruder touch screen stops responding. I don't have this kind of problems in the original firmware or in the beta6 What should I do?
Ugh. Im wishing I never saw this site at this moment. I was having issues with my brand spanking new A5S where the leveling was strange. (if I managed to get it even on the corners, the center was too tight.). So followed the instructions super carfully. Installed the firmware. Leveled the corners. Did the mesh level. Saved the results. Added M420 S1 to the start code. Restarted the printer and made sure it grid mode was on. Pressed print and it ground into the glass and jacked the nozzle. Ive tried everything I can think of to fix it. No luck tonight, going to sleep. Could there be something wrong with my start code?
G28 ; Home all axis
M420 S1 ;Grid Leveling
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ; Move up 15mm at 6000mm/min (note: more than the max speed set in the printer firmware)
To elaborate a bit... When I am corner leveling (in any firmware) the front left needs to be loosened to the point where the knob nearly pops off. So clearly something is totally out of alignment. The grinding on the glass from the custom firmware might be ok, I cant feel any groove in it. Just visible (thank you jesus). I think the printer came with an extra nozzle too... If needed..
Now, after doing the mesh leveling, and following directions , although there is no option in this firmware visible to me that is specifically called "mesh leveling" to enable or disable. It appears to just be on because I see the "edit mesh" option. I see Bed Leveling - on. I can turn that off. I assume its what is meant. I really wish the verbiage would be updated in the guide to match the actual firmware. I shall make a video when I solve these issues (to help others)
When I get through the leveling, and save. Turn off the printer, back on in 20 seconds, check that the "Bed Leveling" is on, and do a home... It looks good. I press to print something exported with the M420 S1 ; added... It appears fine, homes, then suddenly makes an awful grinding noise. Emits some filament and then suddenly goes down too close and drags on the glass. Just enough to mark it permanently, not enough to make a feelable groove.
Would be so so so so so (I can add a few more so's if you like) grateful lol if anyone can problem solve with me!
Have you checked to make sure the x axis is level? Maybe one of the z axis motors is out of alignment with the other one. That happened to me and I had similar problems with it grinding against the bed. Not sure if that's the issue if it's making the grinding noise before lowering the nozzle but it's worth checking.
Actually just spent the last hour with a caliper and getting it so perfect. Probably would have never needed mesh if I had understood how to do that (though its clearly far from unwarped). But anyway, even with a perfect mesh leveling, tested with the x/y movement.... perfect home... its not until it has just finished releasing some filament, then it just goes down and does the exact same thing (grinds into the glass like I never changed anything. Even if I level absurdly high from the glass just to experiment. None of this on normal firmware of course. Ugh.
Hi and welcome @doublehead -- as you may be able to tell, sorry, but I'm pretty short on free time, which is exactly why I haven't been able to refine that guide. I generally suggest to test with pronterface connected, do some manual movements to verify that mesh levelling is enabled and functioning. Maybe we could skype / discord chat - perhaps PM me.
You are fairly awesome to even respond so quickly to my woes Samuel. On the bright side, I am still able to flash OEM and print the prototypes I bought it for (they are small). But I am totally down to solve this and make a video on the process. By pronterface I am guessing you mean USB to laptop with the JGreat software... lol just googled. Looks like a different slicing software. Downloading. Ill PM you. Thanks so much for chiming in!
No worries - any assistance to help improve the documentation status of things like mesh bed leveling would be so gratefully appreciated! Pronterface is a gcode control software, not a slicer. Kind of like Octoprint for PC in some ways.
Are you leveling manually or do you have a bltouch or something similar? I'm wondering if your z offset is the problem. You can see what it's set at by using gcode m851. I know with a bltouch it will be a negative number - usually somewhere between 2-4.
Manually. This is my second printer, first was a tinker toy (delta, neva). My skill lies in creative invention and somewhat in 3d modeling. So bear with me. That being said I am a web developer (/Jazz drummer lol) so I will learn fast and am not scared. So I take it , I should get Pronterface, reflash the custom firmware, then enter m851? Its currently printing a toy for my daughter. No cabin fever here lol!
I would try M851 from a terminal in Pronterface before you reflash anything to see if it's set to anything other than zero. If you flash new firmware it will change it to zero - I think - unless it is stored in EEPROM. Maybe Samuel can chime in on this to make sure. I don't know if it is the problem, but you should get zero as the Z offset using M851 if you are leveling manually. It should look something like this (my value is not zero)
Send: M851
Recv: Probe Offset X6.00 Y40.00 Z-2.60
Recv: ok
Comments
I appreciate the response I'll have a look I was thinking it was something I was or wasn't doing when changing parameters or creating the firmware. Have a great holiday and happy new year.
I have the 2.0D software on my A5S.
If I heat the bed to 110 ° C, there is a heating fault. I think if the temperature rises too slowly in the end, an error message appears. If I heat up gradually, there is no mistake.
I would suggest heating to 100C first, then setting 110C afterward. You will not achieve 110C if your ambient temperature is low, or if there is a breeze in the room. You may want to look at making an enclosure for printing.
Cheers,
I didn't have the problem with the original software.
Therefore i thought that a temperature increase might have to be reached within a certain time. If it is not reached, an alarm will come. Unfortunately you can only acknowledge the alarm by restarting the printer.
Maybe I'm still trying to insulate the bed
I think the ambient temperature is 18-20C.
thanks
running a custom compiled from the latest bugfix-2.0.x branch on my A5S, having a lot of issues with linear advance.
I was getting a marked improvement with LA on, but started having issue with the printer freezing up a few hours into a print, requiring a power cycle.
LA k = 0.2, 0.5, 0.9, 1.2, and 1.6 tested, all with the same results, dont have solid data, but seem to freeze sooner with higher k values.
LA k = 0 prints with no freezes
Tried it with stock extruder as well as a BMG clone. same results.
Symptoms:
- during printing, serial returns with "busy" every few lines of gcode sent.
- few hours in, all movement stops. Hot end and bed heater remains on, all stepper still engaged (locked, unable to move them until powered off). serial monitor gets multiple busy, and octoprint eventually disconnects. ( I've disabled the M112 code send after multiple attempts to connect in octoprint to rule out the printer being emergency stopped by octoprint)
- LCD screen looks like its normal operation, except for animations and text no longer updated (screen frozen)
- LCD does not respond to touch
- USB connection unable to establish connection until printer is power cycled.
I am stomped at this point on what to do but to disable LA, but am left with the issue of bulging corners and stringing again. Dai has recommended to follow the workaround here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/13040 , but test results were the same. upon inspecting the code, looks like the stepper the A5S already uses #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 1
Anyone else has encounter this issue with linear advance and able to resolve it?
What should I do?
Could there be something wrong with my start code?
G28 ; Home all axis
M420 S1 ;Grid Leveling
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ; Move up 15mm at 6000mm/min (note: more than the max speed set in the printer firmware)
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder length to zero
G1 F200 E10 ; Extrude 10mm at 200mm/min
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder length to zero
When I am corner leveling (in any firmware) the front left needs to be loosened to the point where the knob nearly pops off.
So clearly something is totally out of alignment. The grinding on the glass from the custom firmware might be ok, I cant feel any groove in it. Just visible (thank you jesus). I think the printer came with an extra nozzle too... If needed..
Now, after doing the mesh leveling, and following directions , although there is no option in this firmware visible to me that is specifically called "mesh leveling" to enable or disable. It appears to just be on because I see the "edit mesh" option. I see Bed Leveling - on. I can turn that off. I assume its what is meant. I really wish the verbiage would be updated in the guide to match the actual firmware. I shall make a video when I solve these issues
When I get through the leveling, and save. Turn off the printer, back on in 20 seconds, check that the "Bed Leveling" is on, and do a home... It looks good. I press to print something exported with the M420 S1 ; added...
It appears fine, homes, then suddenly makes an awful grinding noise. Emits some filament and then suddenly goes down too close and drags on the glass. Just enough to mark it permanently, not enough to make a feelable groove.
Would be so so so so so (I can add a few more so's if you like) grateful lol if anyone can problem solve with me!
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