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Full bed replacement?
GrayCountertop
Posts: 38Member
Long story short, my bed broke. Unsure if I can salvage it but I'd honestly like to look into fully replacing the whole bed, starting from the inside cables as I have the model with the cable chain and that might have caused or has been known to cause issues.
I'd rather just avoid that, get a high quality aftermarket bed, but I can't find any as of yet.
I need recommendations.
Also I need recommendations for replacement stepper drivers as well.
Thank you in advance. I'm still doing the largest upgrade known to this printer, but it keeps breaking before it can pay me for said upgrades.
I'd rather just avoid that, get a high quality aftermarket bed, but I can't find any as of yet.
I need recommendations.
Also I need recommendations for replacement stepper drivers as well.
Thank you in advance. I'm still doing the largest upgrade known to this printer, but it keeps breaking before it can pay me for said upgrades.
Comments
I also need to know where the wires go to, which I can't find anywhere... I had the 4 pin and I wanna do 6 pin.
If you’re soldering wires to the heater plate you only need 4 wires. It’s not the wires that are the problem, it’s the connector on the bed is not rated for the high bed current. If you are soldering you will get an excellent connection with a 4 wire setup. Two thick wires for heater element and two slightly thinner ones for thermistor on bed.
Also should I still use the wire carry cage thing because I heard it was bad, but I can't find any good replacements.
I guess I can just wire it like it was and maybe test it with the printer itself turned on? Unsure. Still want to kind of test it with the multimeter but I can barely even understand what that is, let alone use it well.
it beeps on the first and second pole (the one with the heating parts I think) but not the second set (3rd and 4th pole, so I'm assuming thermoresistor) and it also beeps on the 5th and 6th.
I'm assuming that means my themometer went bad.
Can I replace JUST that? and if so, what with?
If you measure resistance using the 200ohms range the heater elements will measure less than 5 ohms. If you measure using the 200K ohms range, the thermistor will measure around 100K ohms at room temperature. Test it unplugged from the main motherboard for accurate readings. Check both at the heater board connections, and all the way on the end of the wires hooked to the bed. If there is an intermittent wire failure on the thermistor wiring that can cause frustrating intermittent issues.
Also I tested it, everything is zero? When I first touch it it does something, then goes to zero. That's for the 1st, 2nd, and 5th, 6th, but the middle two (the 3rd and 4th) just don't do shit. I'm thinking the thermoresistor is broken. Still unsure if I can replace that or not.
I feel like getting a new replacement bed and some random boro sheet is my only option. Everything everyone tells me to do I come up empty with and I'm starting to lose steam with it.
Plus I'm going to have to wait for these wires anyway... idk.
Very unsure how to make sure the bed works, or how to really work a multimeter to begin with. Plus if I have to order a thermoresistor I'm worried about that as well.
The bed is nicked hella hard in the back to the point where it's almost breaking the heating line thing. That's how it stopped working to begin with.
Unsure if it's broken just because of that, or what, I can't tell and don't know what I'm doing.
I think I'm gonna keep trying to make this bed work, but order another just incase. Any solder will work aswell right?
If you look on the underside of the bed you should see the thermistor in the middle. If you measure resistance over that you should definitely get a reading......
Hopefully I can order the bed as well, but I've been saying that for almost a week now because paypal is still pending lol.
https://m.banggood.com/10-Feet-16AWG-Wire-Soft-Silicone-Cale-High-Temperature-Tinned-Copper-Flexible-Wire-p-1372701.html?rmmds=search&p=!P11034818912014032C&custlinkid=421371
I also couldn't find any ranges of gauges, and am unsure the exact feet, I measured out roughly 3-4ft of my own wire, but it's not silicone and doesn't flex too well.
I'm always paranoid about ordering from china sorts of items.
https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B017TFR6SM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=14awg+silicone+wire&qid=1563815338&s=hi&sr=1-3
Or this one: (16 gauge, 5ft of red, 5ft of black)
https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B00TG1TRL2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=16awg+silicone+wire&qid=1563815488&s=hi&sr=1-3
It may look aluminum but I believe it will work for the heat bed just fine.
The thermistor can use smaller 20 or 22 gauge wire.
As for how to take a reading, there's a table that shows you how the bed is hooked up on the bottom:
The A5 is a 24V system, so if you measure the resistance between pins 2 and 3, you should have between 3 and 5 ohms. The ones labeled "NTC" are the thermistor. If you look closely at the bottom of the bed, you can see 2 very small traces going towards the center where a little dot is. You can measure the resistance at the "dot" through the soldered connections, it should be ~100,000 ohms (100k). From there you can measure at the connector to make sure you have the same reading. If not, you could take a new thermistor and tape it to the bottom of the bed and run the wires to the board which would repair the temperature reading.
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