Homeβ€Ί JGAurora A5 & A3Sβ€Ί Modifications & Upgrades

New heatbreak, everything to short

ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
Hi,
i'm looking for a new heatbreak, but i'm unable to find a heatbreak that is long enough. The standard mk8 heatbreaks with m6 thread are 26.5mm long. those are to short if you want to use the original fanduct. and standard nozzles.

Where can i find a longer all metal (titanium preferred) heatbreak which is long enough to screw it completely in to avoid squeezed dripping off the filament caused by to light pressure and to high distances of the threads.

best regards,
kse

Comments

  • Laser8302Laser8302 Posts: 170Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited August 2019
    I'm using the microswiss heat break which is 26mm long. You just need to adjust it well enough so you have a good transition zone and so that your part cooling fan lines up correctly. The set screws in the side of the heat sink will keep everything in place. Short of going to a E3D V6, I think the microswiss mk8 throat is your best bet.
    Post edited by Laser8302 on
  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    the 26mm heatbreaks are to short.

    but i just placed a order at a chinese cnc manufaturer to mill a new x carriage out of aluminium to get a groove mount.Β 

    as soon as they annodized it, they will ship it to me.

    So i will switch to a e3d v6 hotend, or to a cloned mosquito hotend.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Oh wow!!! πŸ€©πŸ‘€πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    got some photos of the final anodized parts. looks awesome.
    can't await to have those parts here.
    Thanked by 2Gandy aestrems
  • GandyGandy Posts: 89🌟 Super Member 🌟
    This looks quite promising! Where do you order the parts, do they accept STL files and what do they charge for this? I assume they would also do threaded holes?
  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I looked out for some local and international cnc manufacturere. the situation here in germany is bad. I've send mails to a lot of manufacturer. only few of them responded with prices way above 1000€. so i also contacted some chinese manufacturer. they do respond and the pricing is way more reasonable.Β  i choosed https://bestcreating.comΒ 


    I paid round about 130$ including shipment and paypal fee for those 2 parts. They need step files for the Machinig of the parts. they asked me if there are any threads to drill, so yeah they would also to threaded holes.

    i placed the order last monday evening. they will ship it tomorrow, so they just needed a few days to produce and anodize the parts.
    Thanked by 2Gandy Samuel Pinches
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    That looks awesome. Would you consider sharing the solidworks/step files here too? Nice design! And looks sharp in black :sunglasses:
  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    already uploaded it to thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3828989 i just don't know why it doesn't show any of the pictures over there

  • GandyGandy Posts: 89🌟 Super Member 🌟
    They should appear in time. Thingiverse appears to currently have massive problems in this regard. Hopefully, they will resolve this, soon.
  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    it generally seems to be very slow in the last few month..
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 142🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Last print I uploaded there, I never saw the stl files as pictures. I should check and see if it ever sorted itself. (It did)
  • Laser8302Laser8302 Posts: 170Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Do you think I could print something like this out of PET-G or ABS or PC and have it work reasonably well? I'd like to go E3D hotend and this looks like one of the better ways to do it, because it looks like it keeps the nozzle/hot end closer to the top of the x-carriage so you can still use your part cooling fan/heatsink fan?
  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    depending on your setup. i would not use petg, cause it starts to soften at 80Β°C. ABS or PC should do it, if you don't want to print above 300Β°C

    The Material will not melt, but it will soften if it gets to hot on the groove mount. this would cause more flexibility and could cause strange printing effects. so the higher the weakening temperature of the material is, the better is the material for this use case.

    So in conclusion: ABS or PC with a weakening temperatur of 110Β°C(ABS) or 140Β°C (PC) should be fine.

  • ksekse Posts: 10🌟 Super Member 🌟
    and here it is. received the parts today.

    Thanked by 2Gandy Samuel Pinches
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Nice..... looks pretty schmick!!
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