Homeβ€Ί JGAurora A5 & A3Sβ€Ί Modifications & Upgrades

cartridge wattage?

MattMatt Posts: 314🌟 Super Member 🌟
Hi. Should the cartridge be forcibly 24vx30w or else?

Comments

  • Stephen ToddStephen Todd Posts: 281🌟 Super Member 🌟
    If you fit 30w and should be 40w, then you will limit how hot the hot end can get - should still be OK for PLA, but not ABS

    If you fit 40w and should be 30w, then will just be more efficient

    If should be 12v and you fit 24v, then will not get hot enough to print anything

    If should be 24v and you fit 12v, then it will burn out



    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • MattMatt Posts: 314🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited January 2020
    Ok, so I must go for a 24v x 40w? (I asked 'cause, searching for a spare hotend for a jg a5, I found just 24x30, albeit I believed to be sure that I've readed somewhere that it must be a 24x40).
    Post edited by Matt on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    I'm very sure the A5 is 30W standard.
  • MattMatt Posts: 314🌟 Super Member 🌟
    ok, so i must take a 24 x 30?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    No, as long as they are the same size (ask the seller) then see Stephen's post above for the answer to that one.
    Must be 24V
    Does not have to be 30W.
  • Stephen ToddStephen Todd Posts: 281🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited January 2020
    The original is

    6*20mm 24V 30W

    They are standard dimensions and you can get them from Amazon, eBay, etc.

    I buy from aliexpress

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824266776.html





    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by Stephen Todd on
  • Stephen ToddStephen Todd Posts: 281🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I buy 30w as I only print PLA - but 40w is going to be a better if you print with high temperature filaments
  • MattMatt Posts: 314🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok, but how to print with higher temp filaments, if the printer temp stops at max 250Β°?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    You’d need to replace the heat break with an all metal one, so that it does not have a PTFE liner inside.
    Thanked by 1Gandy
  • GandyGandy Posts: 89🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited January 2020
    With the original hotend it is not advisable to print at too high a.temperature. The heatbreak is lined with PTFE and you do not want to risk it breaking down, it will emit hazardous substances when getting too hot. In order to achieve higher print temperatures you would switch to an all metal hotend like the E3D V6 or alike. Maybe you could even get away with just replacing the heatbreak with an all metal one. If you aim for print temperatures above 300Β°C you may have to replace your temperature sensor with a PT100 which may require additional electronics. Here, a 40W cartridge would definitely make sense.
    Post edited by Gandy on
  • MattMatt Posts: 314🌟 Super Member 🌟
    ok, so for now i'll stick to the common 24vx 30w (or a 24vx40w is anyway no problem, in case I've already ordered it)?
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