Home JGMaker Magic

Finally designed a JGMAKER Magic direct drive

For anyone who would like to convert their bowden setup to direct drive, i'd say try it. Prints are coming out immaculate. 
Im selling the model in Cults3d. 
Money earned will be for more R&D to upgrade jgmaker.
Goal is to have it free once im contented with the upgrades.

Sorry for the janky setup. Still deciding to add quick release for the hot end for faster maintenance along with wire connector
Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches


  • stevekstevekstevekstevek Posts: 1Member
    This looks interesting -- I'd like to try it.

    Do you have the parts list for the extruder and fans you used?
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    How did you get around the clunky awful board in the hot end housing?
    every design I’ve sketched stops with the board.
    mid like to see it opened up if it’s not too much to ask
  • ZelZel Posts: 24Member
    that design is long gone now lol. what i did was trace it. I thought its positively controlled but nope. Switches are in negative end. So instead of common ground, its common power. 
    i ended up throwing that hotend board and used VGA connector on my new design. Easy cleaning and maintenance.
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    I noticed common power too... dissected I also noticed jumper from heater block to limit switch???? Correct me if I’m wrong... jumper somewhere in there???
    question is: can I run just two wires to the heater block and tc and forget the jumper. Is the jumper serving any purpose?

    I may have a few more question as I’ve been looking to reduce and simplify their design.
  • ZelZel Posts: 24Member
    im not quiet sure since its been a while since i used that pcb. are you already using 32 bit board? if so, it might be better to just scrap the whole pcb and directly connect it to the board. I used VGA connector for quick disconnect and i dont really have to think which wire goes to which part. 

    regarding with the "jumper" i believe that's only to supply the limit switch with 24V. Its common power.

    i may have to dig through my junk bin to find that pcb
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    Another question: I know the stock heater cartridge is 24v 30w... can it take a 40w??These are common heaters on Amazon.
  • ZelZel Posts: 24Member
    im using 40w but its 32bit board.
    generally, thats just relates to how much heat it can produce.
    higher power=more heat and faster heating time (not much) but more dangerous so you need to have a good board that has many safety stuff activated like thermal runaway.

    are you running on a stock board btw?
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    I am running a stock board. I’m assuming you absolutely need the 32bit to run the 40w?
    And I DO have thermal runaway FOR SURE lol been getting that error a lot when running my part fan for extended times. I tried running the fan while PiD (50%) but my heater core is having a hard time catching up. Reason I’m researching the 40w.
  • ZelZel Posts: 24Member
    well not really, i just dont like the stock board lol
    did you do auto pid yet? kinda odd running fan and presents thermal runaway error for prolonged use...
    i have my end script to run the part fans at 100% on top of print too cool it faster for bed to release. and sometimes i forget they're on lol
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    How do I identify if it’s 32bit or not?
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    I agree with not liking the board only because some of the upgrades I want to do are slightly outside my comfort zone. Ran into a video of how to put BLtouch on but haven’t done it yet. I’ve kind of given up on a second extruder (wanted to try a Prometheus style double) because I’d have to completely change the board out.

    I think I’ll try the 40w and just keep an eye on it and make sure I don’t burn the place down. Lol

    if all works well I’m going to try and attack the wires to my hot end assembly again. I really like how the PCb looks compact in your above photos.
  • ZelZel Posts: 24Member
    Advantages of upgraded board:
    1. quiet stepper drivers
    2. more memory to run more features
    3. more pin io
    4. can handle more power
    5. you have to alter the program based on your needs which means you know the ins and outs
    6. some board has wifi capability
    7. easier integration for custom parts and custom tasks
    1. you have to install it lol
    2. wiring nightmare (i dont really care at this point, ziptie everything!)
    3. custom stepper driver cooling system
    my upgrades so far:
    1. abl
    2. textured glass bed
    3. intake/exhaust equipped enclosure (planning to automate this)
    4. custom part cooler (upgraded the above pics)
    5. dual 5050 blower part cooler
    6. 30mm hotend heatsink cooler, activates at 50deg C
    7. skr 1.4 turbo board with silent drivers
    8. optical endstops
    9. added raspi 3b+ (got it for $20 lol) and camera
    10. all metal hotend
    11. 40W heater cartridge
    12. VGA connector for hotend
    13. bondtech direct drive mod (much closer to heatsink now) with pancake motor
    14. ceramic linear bearings
    15. silicon heatbed springs
    1. 9 point bed levelling dual touch
    2. auto pid (hotend and bed)
    3. led light status colors
    4. octoprint enabled
    5. linear advance
    6. custom start/end scripts
    7. etc
    i forgot some but let me know if you're planning to go down this path lol 

    i have other stuffs lying around my room that i can put in just to overkill the upgrade.
    dont get me wrong, its just i love tinkering 
  • PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 46Member
    just just got my heat lock installed. No fire yet. Bout to install fans!!!
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