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Replacement filament guide (bearing?)
g_pwn
Posts: 29Active Member
Does anyone know where I can find a replacement filament guide bearing? I have been having issues with feeding (stops mid print - new nozzle, tube is good etc) and decided to take apart the motor that feeds the filament.
I found my bearing was made of plastic (not sure if I can upgrade to a metal one?) and it was shaved down causing it not to be able to rotate at all...
Below is the location of what I'm referring to (its the bit that is opposite to the gear teeth from the motor) Thanks!:
I found my bearing was made of plastic (not sure if I can upgrade to a metal one?) and it was shaved down causing it not to be able to rotate at all...
Below is the location of what I'm referring to (its the bit that is opposite to the gear teeth from the motor) Thanks!:
Post edited by g_pwn on
Comments
After I got home from work yesterday I went ahead and took apart the filament motor enclosure. What I was initially looking at was a jammed piece of filament in there. I removed it and tried my print again but still jammed a few hours into the print.
After work today I'm going to replace the entire hotend setup with a brand new spare set I have just for this occasion. Hopefully that fixes the damn mid print stops...
Replaced the throat, heater block and nozzle last night and left the print running over night. It failed some time this morning after I left for work.
I think this is an issue with the brass extrusion wheel. I've purchased a stainless steel gear which should be in tomorrow. Once I replace the brass one and start the print again, I'll report back here.
Hopefully my pains help someone else! lol
Maybe your extruder motor gets to hot or your retract is to high.
If the brass extruder weel looks ok, the stainless steel will not change a lot, I have done that once to increase the printquality but it didnt change a lot.
That image is just a sample imagine i found online, its not one I took (sorry, was desperate for an answer)
When I looked my brass extruder wheel it was definitely worn a bit, I just didnt think it was worn too much (I'm new to the scene so had nothing to gauge what it should look like)
In terms of retraction, I've tried it with off, 3mm, 5mm, 7mm same result
If the motor gets too hot, would it stop altogether or would it continue to turn?
My extruder motor was never able to run at 800mV or even higher, it took 5min to get very hot.
In all I would try to change the motor. The normal JG motor is not very strong.
I got that one and its working great with the Bondtech all metal clone which needs 3 times higher speeds.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07GLMGQB3/
But be aware, with that motor you have to change the 2 middle wires than it works right away.
I did replace all drivers with TMC2130 so adjusting volt. should be easy if needed
Is the extruder that hot, the extruder weel deforms the filament and due a retract the weel cant move the filament forwart or produce enough preasure for a extraction.
Yes a stepper motor can reach up to 80°C that is the max. +- a bit. But for a PLA print you have to keep the temp. down to max. 45°C
You can do that by active cooling, causing noize and you need a fan and wires.
Or you can step down the motor current. But only with TMCs
Turn it down. The right way to set motor voltages is to only use so much as the motors needs.
So set it down, the temp. will decrease with every 50mV beginn using 450mV than try a print and check the motor. Should be little warm. Check your print. If you dont have nice layers, you are ready to go. If you have sometimes open parts in the layers increase the current +50mV to 500 and try again. Use M906 in PF to see the valves, set it in your startskript with M906 E450 for the testprint.
I initially used M906 S1 and completely forgot about all of it...
I'm going to try M906 E500 (since you said 550 worked well for you) and go from there.
Will report back once I try my long print again.
I really appreciate your help!
Overheating cause the motor to produce more heat next time you will use it. The magnets in the motor arent so strong any more after a overheat. Maybe that was also my problem.
I started my print last night and will continue to monitor it today while at work. Keep you posted!
Also, would you mind showing me which two wires need to be swapped around in the Usongshine 7HS4401S motor? I might as well upgrade the stock motor
Thanks!
After that, try to extrude some mm of filament. When everything is correct, it will work, when there is anything wrong the motor only vibrates and doesnt move but that should solve the cable swap.
Quick update, I'm ~15hrs into the print and it has not failed at all. 100% your suggestion was the fix. Thank you!!!
Thanks for the info on the new motor, I'll be upgrading + swapping pins once I get it in!
Thanks again!!!!
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