Check that your cold end cooling fan is working. If the cold side gets too hot, the filament will soften before it reaches the hot end and this will result in jamming.
Sorry, @netzmark, I have not been precise with my cutting and measuring, and since this time I have replaced my bowden with a direct drive system from inventbox. I think I cut off a lot, all you need is a smooth radius for the filament path. I took the bowden outside of the corrugated tube since it did not really need to follow the wires. Retraction was 7 or 8 mm from memory... but I recommend to tune it for yourself to work out what works best for your material and printer.
Yes I'm tuning it but was curious you experiments :-).
Thinking about direct drive too. I'm not experienced about 3D printers but see the retraction problems hard to manage.
Can you send some link what the extruder you have used? I saw modification usin JGaurora extruder moved onto the movable head, is it wrong idea in your oppinion?
The additional weight on the head needs to be considered. But on the A5, the total head weight is still a smaller limitation than the large weight of the 300mm bed.... so it is still perfectly fine.
I am using the "JG Titan MKII" system from inventbox, it was not difficult to install. However, I do not recommend the IR bed levelling sensor. I think it is unreliable on glass, I have removed that from my printer, and I just use manual mesh bed levelling.
There are also other designs in my thingiverse collection, linked on the wiki.
I'm thinking to bring the bed to be ideally flat and not warping while the heating first. And then to use maybe some switch (or BL touch) working as table endstop, mounted on the head to check after homing if the general distance bed-nozzle is the same then home zero.
Or if warping not possible to eliminate - auto mesh leveling with this BLtouch.
Post edited by netzmark on
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I am using the "JG Titan MKII" system from inventbox, it was not difficult to install. However, I do not recommend the IR bed levelling sensor. I think it is unreliable on glass, I have removed that from my printer, and I just use manual mesh bed levelling.
There are also other designs in my thingiverse collection, linked on the wiki.
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