Home JGAurora A5 & A3S Getting Started & Troubleshooting

How to print writing better ;)

EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
hi, i  have a  little problem with  printing  writing   either  Put on top
 or caved in,.. 
anny idear how to get the  fine print print better?
Post edited by Samuel Pinches on


  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hi. What is this language? Or are you spamming? All your last comments are written in Chinglish language and complete off-topic
  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    well   michalko,
    I am Not english native and dyslectic, 
     so no its nit Chinglish, its Eyeneese and not intended as spam,

    but  if you  a "Super member"  Think my  questions and comments  are  just spam:
    i will stop trying to be helpfull, 

    Thank you for your  input regarding how to get  written text printed better readable

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    I find with a little creative thinking I can usually understand, or I ask for clarification.  :)   I am assuming you are trying to 3D print with text embossed into the object? Can you please provide a photo Eye.
  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Sorry about that. I did not knew that. I am also moderator on 3D Geeks app and I see a lot of stolen accounts where speaking became garbled and I have to report these accounts, because they start spamming a lot in a few hours/days.

    My native language is Slovakian by the way 

    Which software are you using for drawing?
  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hi samuel,     yes embossed or  cut in either way,  
    i seen better but that came from a different Printer with the same nozzelsize...

    This is  0.4

    michalko if my typing ever becomes flawless its time to check my identity,
    and your English seems ok for me, but as saied i fight  with ma motherthoung on a good day

    I use  rhino 5 for my 3d experiments But my Problems are also with stuff from  thingyverse like that nozelbox In the picture
    Vcut in  stuff is hard to read too,
    it seems   its a bit better on the side

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    hi. For me, it looks like a very high speed and overextrusion. For my personal settings, I am using experimental settings in Cura all the time. Also retractions seems to be set wrong and insufficient cooling. I had also problems with marmor PLA filament.

    Stock cooling fan duct is completely insufficient if you are using it

    Thanked by 1Eye
  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited May 2021

    Aaaah I can post again!!!!

    i will try out to play with those Settings, i try at the moment with PETG

    2 Added Questions:

    A) Could smael nozzels Help with it?

    B) does that change behhaviour for outerlines,
    i found that if i print something that shoudl fit snugly like a wago clamp holder that thing whont fit,
    like The Outer lines are to fat /not prcise enough ?

    Best regards

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by Eye on
  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    what size of nozzle are you using?If bigger than 0.4, this would answer why letters are fusing together..

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    So far i only used 0.4

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator

    @Eye how are you drawing the text?

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    OK. So might be problem with high temperature and high speed. Small feature speed is exactly for these small sections.

    try to print calibration cube. Its worth nothing of filament, but will say much of printer settings. Can you also make screenshots of your Cura settings?

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    sam: using the letering Of rhino,
    Michalkos: printig a 20³ calibraton cube at themoment in petg

    Below an exported Condensed verion of the cura file, i take thats whats not standasrt?

    acceleration_enabled = False
    adhesion_type = none
    bridge_settings_enabled = False
    layer_height = 0.3
    layer_height_0 = 0.24
    material_bed_temperature = 95.0
    print_sequence = one_at_a_time
    support_enable = False
    support_structure = normal
    support_type = buildplate
    travel_retract_before_outer_wall = True

    type = quality_changes
    quality_type = fast
    intent_category = default
    position = 0
    setting_version = 16

    brim_width = 25
    cool_fan_speed = 25
    cool_fan_speed_max = 50
    cool_lift_head = True
    cool_min_layer_time = 8
    infill_enable_travel_optimization = True
    infill_pattern = gyroid
    infill_sparse_density = 25
    initial_layer_line_width_factor = 150
    ironing_enabled = True
    ironing_only_highest_layer = True
    ironing_pattern = concentric
    material_flow = 95
    material_flow_layer_0 = 150
    material_initial_print_temperature = 235.0
    material_print_temperature = 235
    material_print_temperature_layer_0 = 250
    optimize_wall_printing_order = True
    retract_at_layer_change = True
    retraction_amount = 5.0
    retraction_hop_enabled = True
    retraction_retract_speed = =retraction_speed
    retraction_speed = 50
    skirt_brim_minimal_length = 50
    small_feature_speed_factor_0 = 35
    small_hole_max_size = 6
    speed_equalize_flow_enabled = True
    speed_layer_0 = 15
    speed_print = 60
    speed_travel = 125
    support_brim_enable = True
    support_interface_enable = True
    support_line_distance = =0 if support_infill_rate == 0 else (support_line_width * 100) / support_infill_rate * (2 if support_pattern == 'grid' else (3 if support_pattern == 'triangles' else 1))
    support_pattern = grid
    support_tree_branch_diameter = 1
    support_tree_branch_distance = 5
    support_tree_collision_resolution = =support_line_width / 2
    wall_overhang_angle = 35
    wall_overhang_speed_factor = 30

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator

    It is very hard to see the surface finish with a translucent filament :D
    Could you also please share the STL or a screenshot of the lettering region in the STL? To compare the file with the printing result. Thanks.

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited May 2021

    That 2 cm block, does quite well;) but i can try with something i am working on, and is far more finiky ;)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 ( stl of the cali cube)

    i can giove you the STL of that..
    and will try to print it for a fotin in non tranparent PLA later ;)

    Post edited by Eye on
  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Hi. Can you refocus on cube? You photo shooted on glass, so your camera took sharp picture of 3 LCD monitors and ceiling, but cube is blurry

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Well that Cube is not the Target anihow, i did some experimenting, and the lettering i whnat seems to be belo the things posible ;) i eaven tried out 0.2 nozzels;) i will put some pic here o The latest with something zi the size compareisn

    seems its quite hardto print letters below ziize 3

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    thats kind of what i tried... ;)

    tzhe square ones are Diffrent tries , with diferent fonts and Different nozels,
    the hex one is a later redesign

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited May 2021

    Ah I see now that you have problem... Font is too small to keep up with nozzle size. For 0.4mm nozzle thinnest readable for me is around 7mm. Compared with USB connector, font is really small, so 0.2mm nozzle is good choice. But they are easy to clog. Also in Cura, cooling section, adjust minimum layer time. For PLA I usually use around 15 seconds minimum. This will slow down printing to let previous layer cool down and avoid warping

    Oh. I forgot.. Are you using stock filament cooling duct? I found it insufficient from beginning. I am using customized from Thingiverse. On my FlsunQ5 was stock duct same-only blowing from one side. I had to replace it as first thing

    Post edited by michalko99 on
  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited May 2021

    i did experiment quite some with the fonts, with some kind of surprising results,..
    Thick /bolder fonts help a bit, also there one called geert I think which seems to be designed with 3d printing in mind

    smallest Printable for .4 nozel was about 2.8 fontsize and the difference between an 0.4 and a 0.2 nozzle was not that great (had hoped for more) ,)

    the squares are 12 mm, the 3 in the hex one is iirc 4 the 02 3 and the S a2

    Samuel did advice to go for 0.5 mm hight so that is whats used

    Also The Silver spool is getting to its end and the filament is quite ,. warped
    and the whole thing got ( with 0.4) suck so hard i had to cut the tube again... might have to buy a new one again but thats the fun with all 3d printing ;)

    I reduced leyier tim to i think 8, ages ago To reduce stringing ;)

    regarding The duct... ;)

    some i found on thingyverse did not quite fit so i remixed one a bit
    so i now use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4821192

    with 2 50 mm Blowers and, No added duct, as that thing seem to be TO good at cooling ;)
    i have the Print fan down to 50% as it leads to problems with the heatbed if i go for PETG ;)

    With that i have verry view problems regarding sitining except if i use PETG and eaven there its just a Bit

    Post edited by Eye on
  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    for PETG it is recommended to use cooling fan at around 30%. There is problem with layer adhesion and infill breaking. With no duct you are cooling nozzle too much which is unwanted. Cooling duct shall be pointed on nozzle tip and below

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    do you have a duct taht you like,
    u tried severl round,and C shaped The problem was that the >Bed< runs in a heaterror not the nozzel, ;)
    the 50x20 fan is in my standard settings atm is start 0, and gets up to eaven 50 % t some layers without the duct,..

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Yes. I am using only this one for a few years. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2788702

    I printed it from white ABS and so far no deformation. It is used together with this mounting kit.

    No complaints from my side and cooling is perfect

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    He i tried those, But the smaler fan was quite loude That why i went to the other one ;)
    and the duct i did Try some times ago,.. But in pla. maybe not the best material

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    You are right, that 5015 fans are louder. I have it on place where noise is not a problem. Mostly I print ABS and PET-G on A5 so all my printed upgrades are made from ABS and annealed then. When I print parts whose require 30 hours to print PLA would not last for sure from radiated heat

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    my JGAURORA!!! A5 stands in my living room,...
    I am Thinking about reducing its speed of those with something like a resistor... ;)

    Also some friend of a friend did print some of my STLs through one of those smlly light pinters and the result Acryl well

    as thought if i can print ot Okish with mine,.. It looks splendid with those.... ,(

  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 153Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Do you have TMC2208 stepper drivers upgrade? Without them, printer is screaming like Ender3

  • EyeEye Posts: 115Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟

    Realy looks good or?

    and no, i have replaced my stepper some time ago But with original ones, and have it singing

    i am a bit... worried about messing up the settings ;)

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