Home JGAurora A5 & A3S Getting Started & Troubleshooting

Distance between nozzle and heatbed after leveling

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  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Wow, I'm really surprised that none of those worked – sorry! Would you consider sharing a video of the first layer as it is printing? 
  • dope76dope76 Posts: 12Member
    I think I have found the mistake. the heatbed is higher at the corners than in the middle, it hangs through. I have ordered a new one now. I hope that works then. did someone already have this mistake?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited July 2018
    Maybe the bed screws are all too tight, that can cause distortion or warping of the bed plate. Technically you only need 3 points to level a bed, but since we have 4 screws, it is over constrained and easy to warp.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • dope76dope76 Posts: 12Member
    Hi Samuel,
    what du you mean with "too tight"?
    All four screws are easy to screw in both directions.

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Well, glass is normally perfectly flat. It may be that the aluminum bed warps when heated, this is common for cheap rolled aluminum (cast aluminum doesn't warp when heated). Or it may be that the springs and bed screws are warping the bed.



    Over constrained systems will always be imperfect  - for example, if you try to draw three dots in a straight line by hand, and then join two of the dots, the third dot will not be perfectly in line with the other two. Two points define a line, three points means the system is over constrained. For a plane or a flat sheet, you only need three points to support it. But on this printer we have 4 screws - so it means that unless all 4 screws are perfectly positioned, they will be exerting a warping force on the bed. In some ways this is good, as it may allow us to correct for any warping that occurs during heating, but it also makes achieving a level bed more difficult.

    A good article on problems with overconstrained systems, with some simple diagrams can be found here:

    More info on bed levelling is on the wiki here.

    If you are unable to get your bed perfectly flat then you may want to consider using mesh bed levelling instead.

  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Sam, does the babystepping require to be enabled additionally somewhere? My "baby Z+" and "baby Z-" switches are gray (maybe it's normal) and I can't see any effect of working.
    I haven't change anything in the code related to this, the section remains as downloaded the firmware:

    #define BABYSTEPPING
    #if ENABLED(BABYSTEPPING)
      //#define BABYSTEP_XY              // Also enable X/Y Babystepping. Not supported on DELTA!
      #define BABYSTEP_INVERT_Z false    // Change if Z babysteps should go the other way
      #define BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR 5   // Babysteps are very small. Increase for faster motion.
      //#define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET   // Enable to combine M851 and Babystepping
      #define DOUBLECLICK_FOR_Z_BABYSTEPPING // Double-click on the Status Screen for Z Babystepping.
      #define DOUBLECLICK_MAX_INTERVAL 1250 // Maximum interval between clicks, in milliseconds.
                                            // Note: Extra time may be added to mitigate controller latency.
      //#define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_GFX_OVERLAY // Enable graphical overlay on Z-offset editor
    #endif

    Also don't catch what efect should have with double-click. When do double-click on the status screen (well, maybe I don't know which one it is) - not any reaction. Can find baby switchec in More menu but as said - seem don't work.

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    What is your start gcode?
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    We talked about my start code in another thread... it is as follow now:
    G21 ; set units to mm
    G90 ; set to absolute positioning
    M106 S0 ; set fan speed to zero (turning off)
    G28 ; home all axis
    M420 S1 ; enable the mesh correction
    G1 Z5.0 F6000 ; move up 15mm at 6000mm/min
    G92 E0 ; reset extruder length to zero
    G1 X0.0 Y0.0 F1000 ; go to edge of print area
    G1 X60.0 Z0 E9.0 F1000 ; start intro line
    G1 X200.0 E45 F1000 ; finish intro line
    ;G1 Z5 F1000 ; nozzle raising to take it off from the printed filament (to test)
    G1 E44 F1000 ; retract 1mm
    G1 X250 F4000 ; fast wipe away
    G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Hmmm... that should be working. What happens in pronterface when you send those babystepping commands during printing? 
    http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html
    e.g.
    M290 Z0.25 ; move up 0.25mm on the Z axis

  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    Here I also have a bit strange effect. When having pronterface connected then start printing from LCD - the bed heater starts but heater extruder (it runs when I take off the usb cable). Heater extruder always starts when printer is stand alone. Ok I will check it tomorrow (it's 2am here) to start printing stand alone (LCD) then connect pronterface to test babystepping..

    But can you tell me pls:
    - status screen is the first screen apearing after "start print" and if I tab it twice the screen should be redirected to the screen with baby switches??
    - baby switches what colour shoud have? Gray or blue - it seems to me I saw blue on your video. Gray means "mot active" or it is just gray without any meaning?
    Post edited by netzmark on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    hmmm... I'm not 100% sure off the top of my head
    maybe the print is paused?? I'm not at my printer right now sorry.
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    Could you pls check it later when being at printer? Now I even don't know the option is blocked totally or works but with non-visible steps.
    (I searched over youtube but never found how this should really look like in JGaurora).
    Post edited by netzmark on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    I'll look into it and let you know.
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Sure I have seen this. I don't know is it light maybe but your switches seems be light-blue.
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    My setup is differ as I don't have autoleveling. But it should be not important I guess.
    Post edited by netzmark on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hi Sam
    It works! But default multiplication is so small that I got it works after 100 clicks...
    Definitely it must be modified. Some advice how to tune it to get 1 click = 0,05mm?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Great!! It's set really small to allow fine adjustment... you can change the mks_config.txt file before you flash the LCD firmware. 

    # Mesh Up
    >moreitem_button3_cmd:G91; G1 Z0.025; G90;
    # Mesh Down
    >moreitem_button4_cmd:G91; G1 Z-0.025; G90;

    change this to:

    # Mesh Up
    >moreitem_button3_cmd:G91; G1 Z0.05; G90;
    # Mesh Down
    >moreitem_button4_cmd:G91; G1 Z-0.05; G90;

    Best,
    Sam
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Also, remember this command is added to the print buffer, so there may be a delay of 5-10 seconds before the baby step change is applied.
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    So I need to flash LCD again with new config, correct?
    My first thought was to change it here "  #define BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR 5 "

    Post edited by netzmark on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited November 2018
    I did not even know about that option! I think that may be for printers with a rotary dial, but I am not 100% sure. I don't know if it applies to our situation. Yes, you need to flash the LCD again.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Going to do, will report if it's solved.
    Thx!
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Are you not mistaken Sam?
    Really this:
    # Mesh Up
    >moreitem_button3_cmd:G91; G1 Z0.025; G90;

    Not:?
    #babystepup
    >morefunc1_cmd:M290 Z-0.025
    ?

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Oh man I am mistaken... far too late here... glad someone is awake 😂😂😂
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    :-)
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    It looks good now!
    thx
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Great ;)
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Regarding to the thread name I have the question how in fact is (or should be):
    - making HOME we store the Z as Z0 level
    - at this position we do leveling using paper or 0.1mm feeler gauge. So bed is at Z-0.1
    - now we create slicer gcode with first layer thickness 0.1mm. In gcode file I see the first layer is printed at Z=0.1. So nozzle is 0.1 over zero and bed is -0.1 under zero. So distance bed to nozzle is 0.2 while layer is calculated to be 0.1mm.

    The question is how it is possible to print layer 0.1mm being 0.2mm over the bed? Is it proper distance or I have something wrong generated by slicer? Should be not first layer printed at Z0 in this case?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    I think when you level so there is some friction between the nozzle and bed, the paper is actually pushing down on the bed ever so slightly (z= -0.1), but after removing paper, the bed rises again (z= 0.0). That's my theory....

    I also thought 80GSM Paper is a little less than 0.1mm, closer to 0.07mm.

    I think part of this reason is also that the flow out of the nozzle needs to have some small additional height above the surface for the filament to curve and flow, from travelling straight down, to being deposited in lines.

    Great questions @netzmark!

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