Please note: the forum is closed.
No new user registrations are accepted. For more info, please click here.
No new user registrations are accepted. For more info, please click here.
Problem with x-Offest shift shortly after starting printing
ufodoctor3
Posts: 60🌟 Super Member 🌟
Dear Forum
In principle the JGaurora a5 works fine, but I observed servel times that the x-axis gets an Offset 3 to 5 mm shortly after printing at the height z of about 1mm. The model is well glued to the platform!
The glass-platform is well heated and fixed firmly by clamps to the Alu-Platform
It seems that the x-axis step motor losses the track by unknown reason
Do you know this Problem? Can you give me an advice?
Thanks
Peter
In principle the JGaurora a5 works fine, but I observed servel times that the x-axis gets an Offset 3 to 5 mm shortly after printing at the height z of about 1mm. The model is well glued to the platform!
The glass-platform is well heated and fixed firmly by clamps to the Alu-Platform
It seems that the x-axis step motor losses the track by unknown reason
Do you know this Problem? Can you give me an advice?
Thanks
Peter
Comments
Https://jgaurorawiki.com/A5/FAQ
Dear Samuel
Thank your advice! If the two horizontal guide axis are well lubricated by an oiling spray, the sledge moves fine and the often observed horizontal “rouble” with heavy vibrations appears less often which provokes later a permanent offset for the upper layers. Thus, I feel the problem here is a “tilting” problem, because the three guiding bearings (two at the top, the third below) are too close together with not enough gap to the axis With enough gap between axis to bearings and good lubrication it works fine, but excessive gap would affect the positioning accuracy Thus I think a redesign is needed with better positioned of high quality bearings! Regards Peter3D Printing Instructions for JGaurora 5
PAN, Dec 12th, 2018
Introduction
The JGaurora 5 is great, but needs some care!
Here my tips after many successful and also sometimes failed experiments.
Lift the extruder about 200 mm with the „Move z“ command so that you have full view to the extruder nozzle.
Clean the horizontal guiding axis with isopropylene using a Kleenex paper. When dry again, lubricate the axis with an oil or Teflon spray. My printer rattled heavily after some few printing, provoked an offset at z= 2 mm!
Preheat the extruder to the temperature which was used for the last session, e.g. 270 deg for ABS. Clean the nozzle with isopropylene using a Kleenex paper. The nozzle should be completely freed from any old particles! Check the cleaning process with a small mirror, as used by dentists.
Start the printer, but stop just at the moment then the temperature for bed and extruder is accomplished.
Check if the the platform (Glass or CCFREE layer) is clean.
Start the leveling with 2 sheets of paper (2x0.12mm). Check if the papers shows a slight resistance when pulling out. Make a second leveling test with only one sheet of paper, should be free when pulling out!
Start the printing command and observe the printing of the very first layer. The hot filament should glue perfectly onto the platform, without additional threads or knots! If the first layer looks poor, stop printing and repeat point 3!
After successful printing wait about 10 minutes for cooling down. Remove the printed object with a sharp scraper and a 0.2 mm steel leaf. DO NOT hammer onto the scraper when the object cannot be removed, the xy mechanism is delicate!Remove the building platform from the printer at handle it on a clean work bench. Sometimes a preheating of the platform to 80 Deg helps!
Measure the height dimensions of the printed item. A tolerance of +/- 0.1 mm is OK for objects <10 mm.
https://jgaurorawiki.com/lubrication
3. I do not recommend heating the nozzle above 250C. The PTFE insulation will break down, producing toxic vapours. Please research this for your safety.
6. For getting the prints to stick, I have written a guide which has been successful for me and others. You may note, I only use one sheet of regular copy/printer (75-85gsm) paper.
Otherwise, I think the rest is sensible :-)
First, you need to show all the settings. Then you can find the first layer speed as a separate option:
For ABS I would suggest trying 250C, that will make the filament hotter, so that it can cause the previous layer to be heated sufficiently for good inter-layer welding. Also, I would suggest to turn the fan off. ABS is generally best to print in an enclosure, so that the ambient air temperature can be increased, and that convective cooling can be reduced. Tip: Many people make DIY enclosures from the IKEA Lack tables.
Cheers,
Sam
https://jgmakerforum.com/discussion/comment/2575/#Comment_2575
Howdy, Stranger!
RegisterIt looks like you've been lurking for a while.
If you register, we will remember what you have read and notify you about new comments. You will also be able to participate in discussions.
So if you'd like to get involved, register for an account, it'll only take you a minute!