Homeβ€Ί JGAurora A5 & A3Sβ€Ί Getting Started & Troubleshooting

Warping Problems

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  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Look what I have found.

    It's not what I really considered but maybe makes sense? Note there is a distance between the heater and the glass so bed may easy warps as it wants to, but glass has chance to sit stable.

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    Looks like a smart idea, wonder how well it works in practice?
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    I think that it requires some very soft but thermal leading plate (tape) between the glass and aluminium to avoid long temperature loosing. I will want to test it in next week.
    Post edited by netzmark on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Sam, sorry for small off-topic. I found this movie and think it's worth to put it onto jgmakerforum.com...

  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    Hehe I am sure thats already in the Wiki Da Hai is even a member here as far as I see.

    I am still going for the 2130s I think.

    PS:
    Today I got a clogged throat, I used the opportunity to install my new capricorn bowden tube.
    Now I get a strange clicking noise when changing filament OUT much higher then the usual I cant move the filemant forwards sound. But there ar no strange sound when printing or retracting and the extruder motor is no hotter than before so it may even be ok.

    Filament seems to flow much more consistent now, because it cant move sideways in the tube, which it could in the JGaurora one...
    Post edited by Prokktor on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    In the wiki I saw Da Hai youtube manual for 2130 but not for 2208.
    2208 is less troubling about wiring (I'm electronic but lazy ;) ) than 2130 and seems be the same good.

    I fight with Slic3r and find it must more friendly for me than damned Java using Cura. When finish with it I will publish some profile and settings. Unfortunatelly as every opensource projects there are also the bugs...

    Post edited by netzmark on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I don't know what the clicking you mean. But maybe it's your cure?

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited November 2018
    @netzmark Β - thanks, I cleaned up and separated the wiki page on stepper drivers into two pages, and I have added the TMC 2208 videos by @DaHai to the upgrading stepper drivers page. I have ordered some 2208 myself too, yes, I like that it is easier too! :smile:

    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I plan to order these days. Have you orderd 1.0 or 1.1 version?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited November 2018
    EDIT: I'm wrong, I didn't know there were other versions. Not sure what the differences are...

    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited November 2018
    I found thisΒ https://wiki.fysetc.com/F6_V1.3/

    Apparently the TMC2208 v1.2 is for the F6. Otherwise the 1.0 seems to be fine. I've ordered the 1.0 myself.

    Looks like FYSETC is more than just a clone company, they are creating some new engineering too!

    We really need to standardise on a CPU for 32bit though...
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • netzmarknetzmark Posts: 107🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited November 2018
    I have found it now.
    1.0 have no golden pad on the top of driver nor via-holes in place where the radiator touches to the board. It gives poor thermal cooling for the chip placed on the other side.
    1.1 actually have not seen on aliexpress.
    1.2 is improved about this cooling "problem" and some changes about the wiring usable for F6 only (probably) - so not important for our motion controller.

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by netzmark on
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