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Melting fan ducts

Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
edited December 2018 in Getting Started & Troubleshooting
Ho ho ho everybody,

I am struggling with melting and softening fan ducts. Today I saw that even my duct mount is deformed.
No matter which model of fan duct I print, they get soft and even melt away.
With my silicon isolator its now even worse because the heating part is now bigger with it.

My ducts, I always print with PETG, I think PLA would show the same effect.
What material do you use? Same problems?   
With ABS prints, its clear to remove the fan duct. 

I now try using ABS fan ducts and the upper fan mount. I cant see how other filaments can be used for that job.
Post edited by Der_Muck on

Comments

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    The glass transition temperature is where the materials start to soften:

    PLA = 63C
    PETG = 88C
    ABS = 105C
    NYLON = 100C

    If you're wondering how to find a good bed temperature for a material, looking up the Tg (glass transition temperature) is always a good place to start :smile:
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Thanks Samuel, I try it now with ABS will see how it goes with it. 
    Badly it happened that my M2 thread got broke while i was mounting the new fan duct... I am going crazyyyy -,-
    Who designs a fan duct mount with M2 in aluminium grrrr now I have to mount a thread repair to fix it. 
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    That is strange I printed my Blowhard3000 with PLA and I have used it for many hours with 240C Nozzle and 80C Bed temperatures without any problems...
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    My Blowhard3000 printed from PETG was so quickly gone :D   But i was printing ABS with 240°C nozzle temp. and 100° for the bed.  That was to much.  Now the fan duct and  the cold end fan duct is made with ABS will see if it helps.
    When it melt again, I will build the fan duct out of 1mm steel. and maybe the whole cold end fan duct to. Dont like it that there is plastic between hot parts.
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok so the problem was the bed temp, I never went over 85C.

    How much success did you have printing ABS without an enclosure?
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Yes it was the combination of the 240°C nozzle and the 100°C bed. That was to much for the PETG. 
    With ABS, the cold end fan duct with the radial fan mount was no problem at all, a realy good print. The hot end fan duct is not so nice to print because overhanging parts wrap a bit with 45° but it was ok. Would be better with support there.
    With skirt, I realy dont have warping problems on the ground. 

  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I am working on a steel fan duct because i dont wanna remove the fan duct while printing with ABS or ASA.
    Maybe its ok now with a ABS fan duct but I dont wanna have a problem again with a deformed fan duct and ofcause I wanna see if I am able to rebuild it in steel.   One thing is clear, its muuuuch more work than printing it 🤣
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok the steel fan duct is finished, made out of 0.75mm steel plate and completely WIG weldet. Works realy well, hope its getting not to hot itself when the fan is not running at a ABS print
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The Steelhard3000^^

    really nice work!
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    🤣👍 Yeah great name hehehe thanks, now maybe i do the cupper heat block PT100 and max temp. upgrade 😁 must think about it
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