Homeβ€Ί JGAurora A5 & A3Sβ€Ί Modifications & Upgrades

BL Touch

itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
Alright since I want to have the least amount of down time and to get it right the first time, is there a more updated tutorial for installing the BL touch?

I see this one (https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/modifications/bltouch) but it states that 1.1.8 is not for that guide. And there is a lot of other tuts out there but they do not state what their firmware it. I tried 1.1.9 the first time but there were of course issues that resolved itself when i went to 1.1.8

Currently printing the bracket

Comments

  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The wireing is the same and the firmware update as I think is not much different to the 1.1.8c
    Read the firmware text, its not so hard to fill in the right valves.
    And check 1000times the wireing. Wrong wireing cause a defect BLtouch.
    Check also the BLtouch homepage, there is also information about the BLtouch and the MKS board.

    Mod of the mod tip, the black diamond plate is not even, its a grid. The BLtouch tip is sharp. If you want the perfect accuracy and little more heat resistance, you can use a metal 2k glue like the "innotec metal weld" to form a little flat tip. On the foto you can see that a little bit. The flat tip should be about 3mm in diameter. That adds nearly no weight to the tip of the BLtouch and is no problem at all, it will never fall down because of it.
    After doing that you can lie a sandpaper on the heat bed, lower the BLtouch so that its pushing with the made flat tip and the spring (dont do that with the tip inside, it has to be outside) on the sandpaper and move the sandpaper even circular to grind it to the hotbed that its 100% even with the bed. Now the flat tip and the heatbed fit perfect together and the gridy surface is no problem.
    Good luck with your BLtouch, its a realy great update! I recommend to level the bed as good at it gets and measure the high of every spring high. Now you can make a heat resistand distance (bakelit or carbon diam. 10mm, 3mm hole)Β  with the exact length and change the springs against it. The plate will be more stiff, no wobbling any more.


  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    very nice... I like the idea about using sandpaper to make sure the 'foot' is parallel.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Its likeΒ lapping :D yeah
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    You are killing info on this forum. Currently I do not have the material to make the tip adjustment though I only do print with pla and 60 degree bed temp.

    In time i will try to "upgrade" the tip with a new tip with mods. I have to finish printing some things so getting this on there and printing again is important. little down time right now.
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    for all that is holy. Can we have the docs state that you need a 2 meter cord as i got the 1 meter and its not long enough. NO where on the web does anyone state the length of the cord you need. I keep hitting road blocks on installing this.
    • Needed longer m2 screws. drove 20 mins out of town to the only store i knew had them
    • Then had to print another holder because i have a 3000 blower duct and cannot slide down so got the fixed one and not sure if it is close enough.
    • Cable not long enough unless i do not allow it to follow the rest of the cords.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I used a sensor cable for that 5 wire 0,25mmΒ²
    https//www.conrad.at/de/lapp-7038862-sensorleitung-unitronic-sensor-s-lify11y-5-x-025-mm-schwarz-meterware-604057.html

    Yeah XD next week we fly to the moon with the JG :D must keep stopping my mod series but there are still 2 or 3 mods to do.

    The tip you cant print with any filament. The problem is that the heat plate can deliver 110Β°C so the glas temp of the filament would had to be the same.Β  I dont know any seriouse filament (maybe clapton) that has realy such a high glas temp. most filament producer say that they can get so high but the truth is different.
    Try the BLtouch holder like I have, its great. Only modded it a little with a dremel to get it a little higher.
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hot damn its a mess. lol

    Alright so the next issue is that by default the place i put the black and white cord is taken. Again after a search no one else seems to have this issue... fun me. At least the section where I put the other cord is open.





    I see from your above picture that it gets attached to the carriage on the front. Do i need to get longer screws? What type would i need to get. Also what would your offset settings be. looks like i might not have a choice on doing it your way.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Huh i think M3x15 Hex Socket Cap Screws you need but I did it with 10mm bought the wrong once.
    You mean the Z micro swich cable? Yes you have to remove it. The BLtouch does that job then.
    Offset is something like -2.15 ir something but i would beginn with 0 and go lower just to have no crash.
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    so unplugging that cable, and leaving it unplugged, to plug in bltouch will not cause an issue correct? dont need a massive crash. i know you said its a micro switch cable but confirming is nice.

    I will but this thing back together and print your mount. then maybe get it on today to resume printing
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    You need to unplug the -Z plug and change the cable to the right cable of the BLtouch.
    Unplug everything and check 1000 times if you made the job propperly. Than you are save.
    https://jgaurorawiki.com/_detail/a5/modifications/10.jpg?id=a5%3Amodifications%3Abltouch

    https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/modifications/bltouch

    Yeah thats always a problem when you work on the printer and see ups I need a new correct print. Happened to me today, my redesigned cold fan mount was wrong... I hate mod. prints from thingiverse.... they are all crap! Better to design something own...
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    so far I got it installed and when connected to the computer it loads up and probs.

    But i followed the code update on the video and have run into a error verifying the code and even the git doesnt help here. remember 1.1.8.

    #error "LCD_BED_LEVELING requires MESH_BED_LEVELING or ABL with PROBE_MANUALLY."


    On another note did you design the stl's above? i would see if you could upload the thingi as its pretty good.


  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 2019
    update.Β https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8302#issuecomment-345091390

    comment out theΒ LCD_BED_LEVELINGΒ to get rid of that error. Verifies. Lets hope for the best
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by itisnot_me on
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 2019
    Ok. so since we removed the switch and all cables are in place correctly with the firmware uploaded I am having a z homing issue. Crashes right into the bed. Trying to work on this to stop it. I am lost as to why it does not use the bltouch as the homing now.

    Edit: when using g28 or the home on the screen the pin does not extend at all. There must be something missing. there is no errors on screen

    Update 2: since the pin is not moving I followed the directions on the wiki to find out what the servo port is. I confirmed that it extends on P1 but even with this info I do not understand what to do with this info

    If the nozzle is slamming into the bed and the BLTouch is not deploying the pin to Z home/detect you might need to reconfirm your servo port (see above) and then change the servo port number (which starts from zero) to match the P<port number> number.<br>
    What do i need to change on the config file.

    Btw i am leaving all items here in case someone else comes across this info and needs to figure this out.
    Post edited by itisnot_me on
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 2019
    OMGWTFBBQ. All this time I have been editing the code and one function was not enabled.

    #define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 1

    So basically the port you test the extending and retracting with is for the above. Also note, which is important, if the red light is on but the blue light on the bl touch is not then something is wrong
    Post edited by itisnot_me on
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 2019
    I cant find out where to fix this issue. I have set up xyz offset in the firmware but when it goes to home it smashes into the bed since the corner of the bed is not offset for the probe.Β 

    I am still doing research to find out how to do this. but if anyone can help it would be great.

    EDIT: what is not stated on that video, and i didnt find it elsewhere, is that for the jgaurora needs to have the below enabled. Since homing is off the build plate.

    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING
    Post edited by itisnot_me on
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ufff yeah ahm did you solve it? Was fighting with the MKS Wifi on my JG so I was not here.
    I didnt had that problems, maybe you missed something from the video?
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I will have an update soon. With as much stuff that I needed to do test and change I might be just making a blog post on my site. Lol
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok but remember, better to check 1000 times and turn the printer of when something is not right.
    You can use a pack of tempos to check the function of the bltouch the first time.Β 
    I used after that my phone case, its leather and dont destroy the nozzle or the bed.
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    So per the question above. Do you have the files that you provided to me here up somewhere. I would like to link to them when I create the post.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 265🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Those STLs are still here yes
  • itisnot_meitisnot_me Posts: 102🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Sorry. I ment do you have the stl files up publicly, like on thingiverse or my mini, so that I can link to them on a blog post. I want to credit you on the files
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