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Cannot Home Z-axis and X-axis Going Bonkers
rhiamonshae
Posts: 12Member
I just set up my "new" JGAurora A5S. (Purchased a year ago, but just taken out of the box.) The X- and Y-axis homed fine, but the Z-axis was too high. So I needed to adjust the endstop to allow the axis to get closer to the build plate (there was a full quarter-inch gap even after raising the plate as far as I could before it became too loose). That was easy enough - I just loosened the endstop screws and lowered the body. Before doing that, I raised the Z-axis to work on the machine so I would not accidentally bump it. Then turned off and unplugged the machine. Once all set, I turned it back on and tried to Home All. The Z only moved up to the top of the machine and will not go back down no matter how many times I select the "down" button. I tried to Home All again and the Z still will not go down, but now the X is jamming itself against the left end and making a strange noise. I shut the machine off and let it sit for a few minutes, restarted it and the same thing happens - the Z will not go down and the X beats itself against the left end. Since I failed to lower the Z prior to attempting the Home All, did break my machine? Ugh
Comments
On another make of 3D printer I strained the z stepper motor wires and broke one of the solder joints to the motor PCB - z-axis would go up if told to, but also went up if told to come down - re-soldering the joint restored normal working
1. Put the x and y axis roughly in the middle positions manually with the printer off.
What is the result?
I can explain this process later in more detail.
Serial Port - left blank since I do not know it (yet)
Baud Rate - 250000
Bed temp for ABS - 110
Bed temp for PLA - 65
Extruder temp for ABS - 240
Extruder temp for PLA - 210
Width - 305
Depth - 305
Height - 320
The rest I left at their default settings since I have no idea if I need to change them and I saved the changes.
Back in the Ponterface screen I clicked Port and Connect to start the communication with the printer (as instructed from a Google search). Port = COM1 gave me and error message: [ERROR] Could not connect to COM1 at baudrate 250000: Serial error: Cannot configure port, something wen wrong. Original message: WindowsError (87, "The parameter is incorrect."
Changed to the only other option of COM3 and I got a bunch of gobbly goop that I cannot begin to copy.
On a whim I tried COM1 again at a 115200 setting. Received an error. So, what the heck, I tried COM3 at 115200...I nearly fell off my chair because it connected. I have oodles of rows of M105. I sent the command of M119 and I received the message of "Sent" and "Triggered" followed by oodles more rows of M105.
Not sure where to go from here.
load Device Manager
double click Ports (COM & LPT)
double click USB-SERIAL CH340 (shows your COM number here)
click Port Settings tab
set Bits per second to highest number displayed in list
click OK
load Pronterface and set to COM number displayed in device manager
and 250000
or install Repetier-Host and Config/Printer Settings/Connections tab set to auto-detect and 250000
both Pronterface and Repetier-Host have up down control buttons for z-axis
I made doubly sure I had my Pronterface settings correct. I believe they are. (I always had the Baud Rate on this screen at 250000.)
I reset and tried it again, but still, I get the gobbly goop. This is what my Pronterface screen looks like.
So, I tried Repetier. Using Auto-detect, when I clicked on the Continue with Step 3 button, it changed the Baud Rate to 115200. Here is the screenshot for you.
After several minutes of that, I aborted and tried it with a set Baud Rate of 250000. After several minutes, I received the message below.
I am officially confused and I think my A5S is as well. Ugh
The community firmware is better anyway - and you get bed mesh leveling - most of us found that we needed it as the glass bed is usually bowed in the center
I am totally happy to try the download of new firmware @Stephen Todd. How do I go about doing that? (Sorry I am such a newb...)
https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/firmware
So, what the wiki says to do is use your computer to interface with controller board chip and load the new firmware - the controller is basically an arduino, and we use an arduino software program to talk to it
Didn't realize A5s had been out so long - assumed it was A5
Sam
I aborted and set the Baud Rate to 250000. I waited and waited and waited for it to connect. No luck.
Connecting at 115200 is not a problem
I'd try to update the firmware again with a different SD card
I used a brand new SD card, still got gobbly goop with the Baud set at 250000. I tried 115200 and I connected. I got loads of the M105 code and remembered to turn off the "monitor printer status" box. So I hit Reset, unclicked the box, and pressed the Connect button. Then I sent the M119 code... Eureka! Here is what I got:
So, my X and Z are triggered. Now all I need to do is fix them. Any pointers?
The X and Z endstop switches are accessible, and you can try holding down or releasing the switch, and see what difference is reported back by running M119. The Y endstop is located in the back of the printer, and can be triggered by moving the bed all the way to the back of the printer.
So, my X is backwards, my Y is good, and my Z is a mess all around. I definitely have some repair work that needs to be done.
Thanks again for all your time and input, @Samuel Pinches and @Stephen Todd.
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