@itisnot_me The video of the rods looks good. Thats normal. Did you checked the Y belt tension? Is Y moveing freely or is it heavy to push? Your problem isnt comeing from Z
@Gandy I am using the copper E3D hotend with a high temperatur carp. max. 550°C, a Pt100 with amp., the micro swiss all metal MK8 throat and a capricorn tube dark blue on the original Coldend but with metal fanduct (handmade) and a self designed printed cold end fan duct. 40x40x10 fan on the cold end and a double bearing 5015 on the hotend.
Looking more closely on the computer I can see some repeated patterns in the two current comparisons. Maybe new rods would fix those. But I also see some randomness to. Will be interesting to see what improvement there is with new rods. Fingers crossed.
Just a short heads-up: After waiting for what felt like ages, the nimble was finally delivered. I just installed it and I'll still have to dial in the A5 for the new extruder. Nevertheless, I've got very promising first results with a much more consistent extrusion compared to the original extrusion setup:
* The visual appearance of the surface is much smoother, and the surface is also smoother to the touch
* The cross section of a single-shell wall shows only little variations in extruded line width
* The overall shell width is a spot-on 0.4 mm, where previously is was 0.55 mm due to varying line widths
* The LIN_ADVANCE test pattern suggests a K-factor of 0.18 for my filament. That was somewhere around 1.1 with a large uncertainty due to blobs both at the start and end transition. The test pattern is much better defined now.
A side-by-side comparison of the same gcode file printed with the original extrusion system (left) and the zesty nimble (right) with the same filament (the object on the right side was then cut to produce the cross section on the right):
There are still some things I need to check/improve before it's time for a before/after benchy picture, though.
I've just printed a few 3D-Benchies, and while there's still a lot for me to learn on how to improve things, I'm quite satisfied with the performance of the extruder.
Obviously, the result is far from perfect and there are a few defects that are identical in all my prints, so they may be related to other factors. Especially corners will need some refinements and in this print the retraction length was a bit on the short side.
The MKS GEN L V1.0 board with TMC2208, combined with the high gear ratio of the extruder (1:30), wouldn't work with Marlins Linear Advance feature: The motor settings may need more tweaking or I'd simply have to revert to the Pololu A4988 driver - as it is now it looses steps big time with linear advance, so I've just turned it off.
Looking at the 3D-Benchies I've printed so far, I see recurring defects (like the boat-deck pulling in the outer wall, the zits on the side and some massive inconsistencies at the rear of the cabin), some of them even identical in pictures I found online. I'm wondering if there is a compilation of "If you see this, tweak that" tipps helping me to better understand my printer and to improve overall print quality. If you know any, please share.
Comments
The video of the rods looks good. Thats normal. Did you checked the Y belt tension? Is Y moveing freely or is it heavy to push? Your problem isnt comeing from Z
@Gandy
I am using the copper E3D hotend with a high temperatur carp. max. 550°C, a Pt100 with amp., the micro swiss all metal MK8 throat and a capricorn tube dark blue on the original Coldend but with metal fanduct (handmade) and a self designed printed cold end fan duct. 40x40x10 fan on the cold end and a double bearing 5015 on the hotend.
Got TL smoothers on this, just wanted to show the difference in using a clone BMG (left) vs Stock (right)
Both printed with the same gcode in petg after a e step calibration. Only difference is the extruder.
Definitely seeing less variations in layer stacking, though still having small variances on the new extruder.
Would upgrading the stepper motor make any difference?
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