Please note: the forum is closed.
No new user registrations are accepted. For more info, please click here.
No new user registrations are accepted. For more info, please click here.
Extruder and Bed same temp problems
Ophiocos
Posts: 30🌟 Super Member 🌟
I received my A5 a couple of days ago. I noticed the bed and extruder measured -15 c, so I looked for loose connections, and so on, I dont know what I did but something worked out, since the temp on both went up to about 17 c. I then set the extruder to 200 c and the bed to 100 c - this is where it got spooky, the bed didnt stop heating at 100 c it continued - at 120 c I stopped it, this morning I tried to set the bed at target 40 c first and then 60 c, funny thing bed and extruder temp are synchronous, even though I maintained the extruder off. How is that possible? and more important how do I troubleshoot it?
I pulled a log from Octoprint, but it is pretty long :-)
I pulled a log from Octoprint, but it is pretty long :-)
Comments
- heating extruder works
- heating bed works
- nozzle temperature seems to be roughly accurate
- heating nozzle makes bed temperature reading follow
It sounds to me like there is something seriously wrong with the motherboard, or a cross over with the signal wires for the thermistors. Can you please:
1) if you heat the bed now, what happens?
2) if you heat the nozzle now, what happens?
Connecting...
The printer is on neg. 3 and doesnt seem to heat or respond, neither bed nor hotend is responding
BUT - we unplugged the bed thermistor, and the nozzle heater thermistor reading has failed as a result? That isn't right. Can you please be specific about which reading is showing -3? We unplugged the TB sensor to the bed temperature sensor, then the reading for the nozzle has gone to -3? That sounds like the thermistor reading in the firmware is mixed up.
Can you please open the file "pins_RAMPS.h" in your marlin firmware folder.
Can you please tell me what numbers are next to the lines:
B=
C=
B=
C=
on the board there are three thermistor inputs, marked th1, tb, and th2. You only need two inputs. We just need to figure out what is actually going wrong, so that we can swap the dead/erratic channel with the spare one.
this can be done by swapping those port numbers around, and then reflashing the firmware.
Connecting...
Howdy, Stranger!
RegisterIt looks like you've been lurking for a while.
If you register, we will remember what you have read and notify you about new comments. You will also be able to participate in discussions.
So if you'd like to get involved, register for an account, it'll only take you a minute!