Home JGAurora A5S, A1 & A3S-V2 Getting Started & Troubleshooting

New user, couple (*hopefully quick) questions!

Drake PerryDrake Perry Posts: 3Member
Hey guys, I just got my A5S in the mail a few days ago and I've been trying to get it up and running with varying degrees of success and would love some help with a few issues.  I'm new to 3d printing but fairly tech savvy and have spend most of the last few days on google and youtube trying to work this out, so please bear with me!

1.  My feeder seems to be grinding/biting down too hard on the filiment, which is giving me horrible underextruding issues.  I guess the A5S doesn't come with an adjustment, because most of the advise I've seen on other forums has been to tighten a screw that doesn't exist on my model.  I've found a printable replacement on thingiverse, except that I can't currently print it, and I'm wondering if there's enough of a fix to get me through printing something a little more adjustable.

2.  My diamond glass bed that came with the printer appears to be VERY warped, not exactly sure what to do/can be done about this, as everything I've come across online doesn't seem to be nearly as bad.  Do people just clamp the bed down to the heater, or is this something I'm definitely going to need to replace?  The A5S did come with clamps to hold the bed down, but even with those attached the bed is still not flat all the way across.

Pictures incoming in a moment
Post edited by Drake Perry on

Comments

  • Drake PerryDrake Perry Posts: 3Member
    edited December 2019
    Here are a couple pics, first is some filiment I backed out of the feeder showing how much it's biting, second is the right side of the bed lifting off the heater.  The left side lies pretty much perfectly flat, right side comes up probably 5mm or so.  This is without the clamps on, when the clamps are on the bend isn't very visibly noticable, but is actually raised a bit in the middle, so when I level the four corners to A4 paper, the middle level position is too tight and the paper can barely be moved at all.
    Post edited by Drake Perry on
  • Drake PerryDrake Perry Posts: 3Member


  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,997Administrator
    edited December 2019
    Welcome @Drake Perry

    1. Personally, that amount of bite looks good to me, I don't think that is the cause of your under extrusion problems. If the filament was being ground down or was slipping, that could be a cause. Check you are using 1.75mm in your slicer, and not 2.85mm.

    2. Glass is always 100% flat, unless a force is being applied to it. It is actually the heater plate that is warped underneath. Use blue tape to adhere the left and right sides of the glass to the heater plate.

    Some people also add a border of tape around the edges of the heater plate, to help reduce the effect of the heater plate as it warps when heating.

    Make sure you undo the bed levelling screws because at the moment they are forcing the heater plate to warp more than normal.

    Cheers,
    Sam
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
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