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Burning / Smoking Heated Bed Connector
System
Posts: 19Administrator
This discussion was created from comments split from: Warning: Heated Bed Power Clamps.
Thanked by 1JayJoe
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My bed temperature is 60 degree btw.
I have just taken off the connectors. Please see the photos I attach. I have ask JGAurora for a replacementΒ
My printing stopped halfway, Is this means that my circuit board or heatbed is 'injured' and can no longer be used? So, is it still ok now for me to solder directly the 4 wires directly to the bed heater pads?
And how to remove the hot glue by the way? Hahah
1) Buy a new and better connector and replace them?
2) Directly solder the wires to the heatbed?Β
3) Don't do anything and wait for replacement? (I don't prefer this if possible because I need to print things haha)
Here's the choices. Which one? Β
Also, how to remove the hot glue? And, can I use heatshrink and wires to extend the original wires? Because I cut the wires and I think they are not long enough now
So I solder the cable directly to test whether it still work or not. unfortunately, it's no longer working. The temperature detected is -15 degree. What I should do now? Seriously why I have so many problem with this printer?Β
What kind of soldering iron are you using? Do you know what the wattage is? You will need 50W or more, I think.
If you don't have a good one, I have linked some high quality soldering irons on the wiki. If you just want something cheap, with lots of power, you can go to your hardware store and buy a gas powered soldering iron. Its more messy having to fill up gas, but that will definitely get hot enough for this purpose. Plus, they are wireless!Β
With a small bit of sandpaper, or a metal object like some sharp tweezers, with some care, you can scratch off the black solder mask, to reveal more of the copper that you can solder too. I'm not 100% sure, but maybe acetone can help with this too. You may want to google for some advice on removing solder mask.
I would recommend you buy some soldering wick (braid) to remove the old solder fully. Also, you want some 60/40 or 63/37 leaded solder with flux, to help create a good mechanically solid new joint.
The reading of -15 indicates there is a break in the connection to the thermistor. Use your multimeter to check resistance across the thermistor lines. You should measure 100k at 25ΒΊC. Scratch off more soldermask until you can find some good points for connection.
I think it is worth a shot with that iron, should make things a lot easier than the old one!
The thermistor is ok (room temperature is around 24 degree celcius), but for the heating element, I am getting 2.3 ohm. Is this acceptable?
So anything between 2-3 ohms is expected. Sorry, my earlier bed heater element resistance was wrong...
I realize that the resistance between the red circles give a stable 2.3 ohm. And I solder on the places circled with red. When I look through the path circuit,Β I think I found the route / path of the circuit. The red arrows show the path of the circuit (I think, based on my observation)
Now,
Then I switch on the printer, and the temperature is correct. And I tried to preheat it to 30 degree C (only, because I am scared) and yea it works The solder connection is quite good, because it gives me a static 2.3 ohm. BUT and WHAT IF, the solder connection suddenly drop off after hours of printing? Worst case scenario, what if the connection short circuit? Is there any overcurrent circuit protection? I don't want to risk my circuit board and I can't afford any more problem and mistake. So, not sure whether I am good to go now
- if it thinks it is putting power in, and no heating is occurring, it shuts off.
- if it is not putting power in and heating is occuring, it shuts off
- if the bed temperature reads too low (e.g. broken thermistor connection) it shuts off
So its got a few precautions already taken. You've done a good job with the cable ties, that will help remove any strain or movement from occuring at your joins.Β
Few more points:
- I don't recommend tinning the ends of leads if you are putting them in screw terminals. Raw copper is better in those.
- The screw terminals you have used, I suggest checking to see that it is rated for 12-15A. Most 240V screw terminals are only rated for 10A, which is marginally sufficient for the high bed currents.
Okay, I will remove some of the tin tomorrow. And for the screw terminals for heating wires, it is rated for 20A max, whereas for thermistor wires, I use 10A max since it's smallest size I have and I think only low current flowing through the sensor.
Once again, thanks so much for your kindness!
Kind regards, and happy printing.
Samuel
Have you negotiate with JG support about sending a new free heating bed?
I have a question regarding extruder heater. Feel free to move this comment to a new thread if you find it proper to do so
May I know is it ok to leave the heating element like this? Without pushing it all the way in. The reason is because I need to heat it up first then with a large amount of force, then only the heating element manages to go in (I did unscrew the the screw before I do this). And when I need to pull out the heating element, again, heating and push/pull real hard. I am afraid that one day, I will accidentally damage it. So I just leave it there, not too tight nor too loose. Will this way spoil the heating element?
- cool down the hot end
- press in the heater a bit more by hand
Otherwise, the exposed part of the heater will cause the heating efficiency to be reduced, which will result in slower heating, and reduced temperature stability. This may cause problems when Β a powerful fan is on.
BTW..both LED and resistor on the bed got fried...that happened to you too?
Could you just tell me what was neccessary with the JG support for bed replacement. Have you contacted them by email, or had to present pictures of the failed bed/connectors?
Thanks in advance...great support forum!
You can contact JG via email or skype - details are on the wiki: jgaurorawiki.com/contact
They will ask for photos and serial number of your device.
Best of luck, and thanks
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