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Der_Muck

The better solution as I did is to get the encloser to stay on its own feets and only lie on the frame. If you fix it on the frame it will increase vibrations and effect the print quality.
Also c…

Thanked by 3coolt5 Samuel Pinches aestrems
Because they have a very bad <span>heat conductivity. So the hotend is always much hotter than the nozzle will be.
If you have such a low </span><span>heat conductivity the nozz…

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches WidgetElgie
Its simple, the extruder is a cheap solution, just change it and dont work on it a long time.
As I am a mechanical engineer I have more that 15 Years of welding practice. My first welding machin…

Thanked by 1Gandy
I realy dont think JG would change anything on the A5 because its a mass produced printer which they made cheaper now and is to long on the market now.
In the beginning they simply had no compan…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
Sorry to say that but I only know you haveing that problem. My X head moves without a problem, maybe your X guides are lightly bend, maybe you want to check them. There are some linear bearing which …

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
One thing improtant, never ever share or use a gcode you didnt produce or wrote yourself.
It can distroy your machine or effect the machine. Your system or other systems are maybe a lightly dif…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
PID tuning has always be done without the fan on, keep that in mind. Yes, the default PID setting is far from reality, everyone should do a PID tuning on a new printer.

The oil can be add on…

Thanked by 1Gandy
415 works, actually it is a little higher, I would take the 415 to beginn exact calibration with it.
I have the upgrade extruder weels for the all metal extruder from triangle lab, its just perf…

Thanked by 1tay916
What are you printing and is the extruder getting hot? As I think the sensor isnt your problem?
When you change the extruder, you have to find a other solution for the sensor or you deinstall it.…

Thanked by 2tay916 Samuel Pinches
Hm 7mm with the PTFE tube seems to be on the higher end but its passible.
Lastly I had stringing with PLA as I had to reset my filament settings because I loose them in S3D (another story)
I …

Thanked by 1cs2000
I agree with Sam, printing ABS without an encloser is passible but useless. You will never have any benefit of ABS when you print it without an enclosure. The layerbonding of the ABS will be a joke, …

Thanked by 1cs2000
When the stepper only vibrates, the wireing is wrong, get always sure before pluging in any stuff. You can damage steppers with that wrong wireing.

Thanked by 1cs2000
B) Sounds perfect, you are welcome :)

Thanked by 1g_pwn
Try this and make changes for cura. If it doesnt heat up before the mashing, add your heat up lines before G29.
Add M851 for the offset after G28 if you dont have the correct valve in your firmw…

Thanked by 1chrisonmoon
Great to hear! There are 4 wires on the connector of the motor, just switch the places of the 2 middle wires.
After that, try to extrude some mm of filament. When everything is correct, it will w…

Thanked by 1g_pwn
@valiobg
Yeah, they are even little stronger ;) :D
I can say that this motor shouldnt get to warm with the standard extruder. Set the current only so high that it doesnt skip steps. That sh…

Thanked by 1valiobg
No Problem, hope it will help you. ;) If not, it can be that your motor isnt good any more because of overheating.
Overheating cause the motor to produce more heat next time you will use it. The…

Thanked by 1g_pwn
No, PLA has a glas temp. of about 50°C sometimes lower sometimes higher.
Is the extruder that hot, the extruder weel deforms the filament and due a retract the weel cant move the filament forwart…

Thanked by 2g_pwn Samuel Pinches
Did you add the TMCs? You can turn the current down to 550mV in the firmware it worked well for me.
My extruder motor was never able to run at 800mV or even higher, it took 5min to get very hot.<…

Thanked by 2g_pwn Samuel Pinches
Also here, try to change to better quality stepper motors, there are many stronger once. <h1><span>1.5A 17HS4401S 1.8°</span></h1>

Thanked by 1cs2000
I add PTFE oil and didnt had problems to, it only sounds strange to use oil but it works for PLA

I would change that motor to a better one, I also had such an bad motor, always a bit warm and…

Thanked by 1valiobg
What do you mean with filament guide?
Maybe your extruder motor gets to hot or your retract is to high.
If the brass extruder weel looks ok, the stainless steel will not change a lot, I have…

Thanked by 1g_pwn
Jo, X+ lässt die X Achse nach rechts fahren, der Pfeil deutet das aber anders, ist aber so :D
Bei Y+ lässt die Y Achse nach vorne fahren, am Bildschirm ist dieser Pfeil auch andersrum.

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches Michel78
ja genau so gehts. Hmm strange, bei mir gings so weg.

Thanked by 1Michel78
Ahhhh ok ich hatte das an Z.
Reflash your firmware, after that, use M502 for firmware reset and than M500 to get it saved.
I also hat that problem with Z, I dont know what solved that problem…

Thanked by 1Michel78
I cant understand that, I think you only have bad bearings on the X axes, my X axes is so smoth and I nearly clean the rods not at all.
I had about 6 bearings and I took the best of them. Some w…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
You can change the direction of that motor in the firmware or you can change the motor wireing. First is the better solution ;)

Thanked by 1Michel78
There is the problem written in the PF log.
Check your Y motor, you may have a problem with the wireing
<pre><code>Y driver error detected:
overtemperature
short to ground…

Thanked by 1hugocz
When you disassamble the 2 Z rods, X is free and hanging, you just have to get the PTFE tube out, unscrew the 2 screws which hold the print head together and lose the belt (unscrew the belt screw and…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
@ufodoctor3
Good documentation for a total disassambling!
But only to change or check the bearings you dont have to disassamble anything, its much easyer.
I had everything disassambled b…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
Its easy, unplug the Z motors, lose the motor clunch, pull the motors off.
Secure the X axes with panzer tape. Unscrew the Z threads. (not the nuts!)
Pull the Z rods off, the X axes is now fr…

Thanked by 2ufodoctor3 Samuel Pinches
@ufodoctor3
To change the original bearings with spare bearings from JG makes no sense, they are the same and same shitty :D Why dont you change to a other company?
Isnt a toiletpaper roll a…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
It depends what bearings you bought. So in my pack where 4 of those, that works a long time. One a year, makes 4 years live time by changing but only if there will be a massive problem.
Peletiers…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
Ah ok thats a problem yes, it always can happen that a wire breaks away.

Yes the bearings are not always so bad as some say, I also found out that even fushi bearings are the same as others. …

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
Yep it is the same than, you dont need the M501 because everythin is in the eeprom.
Yeah you dont need the M851 it is save with M500 but personaly I never use the eeprom for long time saving.

Thanked by 1 cs2000
Hi Peter,
as I can see you didnt change the nozzle, you change the whole hotend?
I dont wanna bring bad news but your thermistor is now broke, you have a lose wire.<img src="https://ae01.a…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
Your start script seems not to be the way it should be oO
Why do you do G28 twice?
You dont need to write M851 to the skript, it is save after M500 only with M502 you need a new M851 setting…

Thanked by 1cs2000
Set the skript beginning with:
<p>M502 //clear the eeprom from a old mash and valves</p><p>
</p><p>M500</p><p>G28</p>
<p>G29 P1</p…

Thanked by 1cs2000
:D You are right hehe I realy thought I cant do anything special with the Vertex PLA but it is not only clear its soooo easy to set up. Its a clear surprising filament :smiley:

…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
From time to time I think everyone want to try transparent prints.
There a couple of special transparent filaments out there, every producer say they are the best but is that true?

I bou…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
I had a few problems with a contact problem of the E connection to the bord so i used that opening to get the new belt and the new bearings on Y.
It shows that the Y has a higher friction now bu…

Thanked by 1ufodoctor3
Heyho,

I bought the ApolloX from FormFutura in black and started testing for optimal settings in the slicer.
I printed several retraction tests (the one with the 2 towers on a plate) and …

Thanked by 1RiyadBrown