michalko99

About

Username: michalko99
Joined: February 2019
Visits: 751
Last Active: July 2023
Roles: Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
Location: Slovakia
Thanked: 92
What model of 3D printers I own (optional):: JGAurora A5, Prima Creator P120, XYZ Da Vinci Pro-Marlined and TMCed, Flsun Q5, MicroRap100 from Thingiverse, Anycubic Photon Mono, Tevo Tarantula PRO, Kingroon KP3s
Posts: 153

you possibly shorted temperature sensor wires. Try disconnecting print head wires on the right side of printer. Here on forum(wiki) you can find whose connectors are needed. If you burned out analog …

Thanked by 1johngriswold
at first you must identify if one of coils is broken or wire is broken. This can be done by using resistance measurement.

If you are using original extruder gear-mounted on right pillar, for…

Thanked by 1Matt
OK. So any micro JST will do the job. But If you did not modified anything, I recommend you to purchase 24V led strip and cut smallest section. Just do not purchase high powered one, as it will heat …

Thanked by 1Matt
hi Matt. No, Olsson makes ruby only 0.4mm. Just buy hardened nozzle or nozzleX(hardened and chemically treated) from e3d and stainless steel extruder gear. In my work we have BCN3D Sigma Epsilon(comp…

Thanked by 1Matt
Hi Matt. Steel will not last either. It will get worn by printing 40g of CF filament as it is very abrasive. Trust me, I know already. I worn 3 before I realized what is wrong. You need to purchase h…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
hi. Do not use this connector. Solder wires directly on pins whose are on heatbed. Use some heat shrinking tubes for insulation and you are safe. This connection is underpowered by JG

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Hello Samuel. Thank you for this forum. It was very helpful for me, when I accidentally found my A5 as second hand for 100Eur price. It was used only once and seller was not familiar with printers an…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
compare coils on both motors-old and new. use multimeter with Ohm setting. If you look in picture of your link, you will see how coils are connected in new motor. Maybe original has used different pi…

Thanked by 2AQhatesA5S Samuel Pinches
reeeealy strange.. Go to help-show configuration folders-user. Backup your A5 files and replace with mine. Restart cura and slice again. Unzip my files at first
I was not able to simulate your fa…

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches Matt
lead screw shall not be sprayed, but lubricated by some grease. Oils has very low viscosity. apply grease and try to spread by moving axis up and down. Also Z axis movement is too fast for my taste. …

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
ok. let me know if you tried and what was result. Make sure it is FAT32 file system and not horribly big. My SanDisk is 8BG and no problems, just quick format from time to time. When my A5 is already…

Thanked by 1Matt
This happened to me a few times. Unfortunately I can confirm from my side, that it was caused by CRAP usb stick. It was really strange. With included USB from SanDisk I never had problem. CRAP key ca…

Thanked by 1Matt
by looking on your photos, I spotted that stepper drivers are onboard. Same I had on my crappy Da Vinci Pro until I taken out everything and put there MKS GENl with TMC2208.

My bad..I was thi…

Thanked by 1CO2
what size of nozzle are you using?If bigger than 0.4, this would answer why letters are fusing together..

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
hi. For me, it looks like a very high speed and overextrusion. For my personal settings, I am using experimental settings in Cura all the time. Also retractions seems to be set wrong and insufficient…

Thanked by 1Eye
filament runout sensor can be defective. It usually is, because it is crap. Disconnect it from LCD board and printer should work normally.

it is better to cut cables, because connector is glu…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Hi Matt. I used small step down converter. From 24V it makes 12Volts and it powers hot end fan and stepper cooling fan and LEDs. I also have timer and this <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thi…

Thanked by 1Matt
no. it will only make restart of processor. Nothing will be erased

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
yes, it should be level, as your prints will be skewed to one side. If printer is on flat table, measure glass height from flat surface by caliper and readjust bed screws until you are in some +/- ac…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
hi. You must heat whole block by heat gun to soften molten plastic which got stuck in thread. Without heat, you are risking breaking tube which will be harder to remove then

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Hi. Point 2 might be correct clue. If burned filament drops from nozzle block to printed part, according to size of printed part, it has enough time to cool down. Another pass of nozzle will hit it h…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
I looked in Marlin configuration and COM speed shall be 250000. I am not using serial port for A5, so I just put value which I set on my other printer..

Do not think much what it could be. Ju…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
hmm. Steppers do not die very often. At least I did not saw broken one yet. There is only possibility of broken bearing or both inside steppers, but not a high chance. So did you found spot where thi…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Hi. Print these retainers at first:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2903406

My printer has still stock springs without issues. Ensure that your printer is on flat surface. After that do…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
did you suceeded?I do not see any further progress from you. What <img alt=""><img alt="">pdb6251 describes is common issue also on A5. These days one of my colleagues asked me for help w…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
there is no other source than Ali I think... If you remove black metal plate covering X axis, you will see whole gantry. It is held together by 2 imbus screws. front part which you are asking for is …

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
OK. So maybe try to take apart printer again, disconnect stepper from mainboard and try to move bed with hand. What makes sense to me are 3 reasons: 1. bearings are dead-these factory LM10UU on A5 ar…

Thanked by 1Matt
Hi Matt. So will you post result of cube? X symbol shall be facing printer front(display)

Community firmware is here:

https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/firmware

It can be downloaded…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Ok. But from your short and shaky video I do not see any Y shifting. More likely X. Also you have some nozzle to glass distance issue.

At first. Download calibration cube from Thingiverse. S…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
sooooo. Are you happy with result? Because you stopped it on first layer. Also I see, that you have direct drive on your printer. This leads to excessive load on X axis. This was not mentioned on beg…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Z axis Vref is higher because one stepstick is powering both Z motors in parallel, so it needs to supply higher current. If you have play in Y direction, it might be loose belt. I had to tighten mine…

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches Matt
hi Matt. Did you managed that your multimeter must be set one more click to right? Did you set voltage right? Your multimeter cables shall be: Black on USB socket, RED on driver touching trimmer meta…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
it is ceramic bypass capacitor. But replace it anyway with new driver

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches Matt
do not measure current. Measure DC voltage or you will fry them again

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
hi. all is on provided link. As a GND point use USB socket-best to avoid shorts. Go to 0.6 without worries

https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/stepper-drivers

<img src="https://jgmakerforu…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
any progress?

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
if you disconnect it, noting bad will happen. Its just for your safety

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
no no. they must be inserted into mainboard and mainboard must be connected to USB power. This will power up stepper drivers and you can adjust Vref. without power, you will read 0V all the time.
…

Thanked by 1Matt
Yes, this happened to me also, but not on A5. It was my first printer-Anet A8. There was no spare port, so I had to replace microcontroller completely.. But it was good printer when I changed frame t…

Thanked by 1Espaitaller
ah I see what <a rel="nofollow" href="https://jgmakerforum.com/profile/Espaitaller">Espaitaller</a> wrote now-I misreaded...He was using external temperature measurement equipment..So OK,…

Thanked by 1Espaitaller
if your printer can read temperature of heater block when you heated it by external power source, you might have burned mosfet on mainboard. Red one can be burned out. If you have good equipment, eve…

Thanked by 1Espaitaller
Then you might have problem with bearings on axis, but this is less potential and would look more jerky...Your shifts are linear...I changed mine after 2 years just because I had original from MISUMI…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
hmmmm. really ugly...All shifted in Y axis I assume. This might be really easy fix if you set stepper driver properly. If X and Z are working properly, do not change them, just from curiosity remeasu…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Remember If you have stock drivers, you do not need to connect AC power. Just USB from computer will be enough to power-up stepper drivers

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
it is not that hard how it looks and sounds. You can even use normal screwdriver, when you have no shaky hands. even TMC2208 drivers comes with metal screwdriver.

herer it is>
https:/…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
while replacing mainboard and drivers, did you set correct Vref on them? If it is too low, it can skip steps and shift axis

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches