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Distance between nozzle and heatbed after leveling
dope76
Posts: 12Member
first thank you for the help in this forum.
I bought an A5 and leveled the printer.
the leveling worked and in step 5 (middle) fits a piece of paper.
But if I print now, the nozzle is so far away from the heatbed that I print in the air.
Is there still an attitude in which I can define this distance?
I've already read that you can set the z-offset in the firmware, but for a value always
update the whole firmware or is that the problem at all?
Please be lenient with me, I am an absolute newcomer
Thanks in advance for your assistance
Christian
Comments
I am assuming you are not using mesh bed levelling - just the normal levelling with the 5 points and the 4 corner screws.
So, you have levelled all 5 points and all 5 points are one sheet of paper away? Is this correct?
strange, with my rather new A5 it almost sticks too hard.
The filament sent with the printer worked very well, and it really popped off when the bed was cooling down.
The filament I'm using now sticks that much, that it needs to be removed with a little force from the cooled bed.
I assume, you are heating the bed for printing, do you?
First layer without the cooling fan?
If there is doubt, if the model to be printed is positioned correctly in Cura, you could activate printing support (from bed) to make sure the print starts directly at the bed.
Hope it helps
br
Andreas
Acetone dissolves plastics. The "Black Diamond" surface is made of a plastic and quite rough. So the molten filament adheres to the surface. You said the surface feels smooth now. That's an indication that it works worse. Take time for bed leveling. Preheat the bed to 50 ° C and the nozzle to 150 ° C. Metal expands when heated. In cold condition you can expect different results than when warm. To level, I take a sheet of paper (80 grams / square meter). The paper still has to move, but it should be a resistance when moving noticeable.
Maybe the Z limit switch is not fixed properly either. It could move. Please check if the screws of the Z limit switch and the bracket are tight. If you are sure that the leveling works correctly and the other sources of error are excluded, then your coating of the glass plate is broken. Of course you can also replace the entire heated bed with the glass top. This is unfortunately relatively expensive.
cheers
AETEK
So my pretty new A5 has a sensitive coating that is attacked by pure alcohol. Look here:
AETEK
I am not sure what the material is. Mine is attacked by pure alcohol. I've already tried it with window cleaner. Then nothing stuck at all. Fat and dust-free it seems only with Akohohl (if diluted) to work. Will your A5 print surface be light and dull when you clean it with alcohol?
cheers
AETEK
I am currently printing a case for my new display. I did the photos while the A5 prints (as best I can).
cheers
I was already prepared to remove the surface with acetone when it stopped working. If this is actually ceramic material then it should last a long time and be very sturdy.
So far I have no visible problems with my dilute spirit-distilled water solution.
cheers
AETEK
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wwt0378fzlauk2b/A5%20money_cat.gcode?dl=0
If you can record a video, maybe we can see what is going wrong.
- cleaned bed with isopropyl alcohol and or ethanol?
- heated bed a 65C, preheated for 5 mins?
- slow first layer, 10mm/s, fan off
- tried more than 1 colour of filament?
- filament at 215C
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